In Dogubeyazit, border city in Kurdistan

In Dogubeyazit people were celebrating Bayram, the end of Ramadan, and what this meant I found out soon enough: no food! All the restaurants in town were closed, and there weren't many to begin with as Dogubeyazit is very small. My hotel had no lunch, only breakfast which was far away, it was early afternoon now. I asked where I could go eat and the answer was:"Wait until tomorrow, then some of the shops will open."
In a slightly forlorn mood I wandered outside, found a supermarket and bought some cookies. The streets were empty, deserted, since everybody seemed to be home, celebrating. Finally, after a long walk, I spotted a street stall. Salvation from the churning feeling in my stomach arrived in the form of kofte in a bun. Finally! Some food to eat, other than biscuits. I was saved.
Down at the end of the long street I could see the foot of Mount Ararat. And some way up the mountain slope, the place of my dreams that I had been cherishing for the past 5 years: Ishak Pasha Sarayi, the Kurdish palace.
This was where I headed now. I asked someone and people told me to take the dolmus, the mini bus, up the mountain as it would be a rather long walk otherwise.
I descended from the bus in the palace's parking lot.

There was a gate through which I walked in. The palace seemed built of sandstone, it's truly exotic shape of a dome shaped roof and several little towers perched on the mountain side. There was a corridor in the middle, leading through several large decorated halls behind each other and then there were rooms- the harem, some other rooms for sleeping and sitting- and each room had a window that, like a picture frame, opened to some breathtaking view.  One has to be in Kurdistan to comprehend it's incredible landscape- endless spaces stretching over rolling hills, rocky cliffs, harshly beautiful dramatic mountain slopes, and endless space. No wonder the Kurds who live here are a proud people with a love for freedom. This landscape is indominable. It is also nourishing in some places, the Kurds seem to have a special love for vines and climbers trailing around their houses, grape leaves obscuring part of the view from the window with their lovely green shapes, and the rest is partly a rocky desert and in part, green hills. I was in awe. I took lots of photos while I explored the rooms of the palace, and from each window frame I shot the view.
That night I finally discovered what may have been the only open bar in town. It was called Simorgh, like the legendary Persian bird. And the owner was a young man who served me mezze with a smile and made me watch some bits of the movies that he showed in his bar, projected onto a screen.
I asked for a sheesha and he took me upstairs where I could sit on the kilim cushions while I smoked.
And then I walked through the night back to my lavender coloured room at the Tahran. It was not as easy as it would seem, in this small town, as the electricity went out and almost all the streets were pitch dark. I was glad I did not get lost.

From Van to Dogubeyazit- venturing into Eastern Anatolia

At the end of Ramadan 2011 I took a Pegasus flight from Istanbul to Van. Having never been to Eastern Anatolia before, I was suitably apprehensive, not knowing what to expect. Would I have to wear a headscarf to stop people from staring at me and think of me as a Western tourist of uncertain morals who was breaking the Islamic rule that a woman should not travel alone? Would I run into terrorists, be kidnapped by the PKK or die in some dramatic car crash on a bad road? Would people refuse to serve me in a restaurant, possibly, because it was all only for men?
No, none of that. My worries were dispersed the moment when, after I had taken a cab across town to the minibus station for Mt. Ararat, I shyly wandered into the waiting room and uneasily sat down, one of the moustached Kurds got up and asked me in Turkish:"Would you like a glass of tea?"
Ice broken, tension gone. My ice, my tension, not theirs. ; )
Finally our dolmush arrived, we all got in, all of them Kurdish men plus one Iranian and his hijabbed wife and their little son, and me. About 12 people squeezed into a vehicle, headed for Dogubeyazit.
The ride led us into the Kurdish landscape- vast planes with very little vegetation, harsh barren mountains rising up with ragged edges, endless views of vast empty spaces, and not a single human being in sight. We did not see even one car during the 3 hour drive. I was already in love with their landscape, as rugged, hardy,  and passionate as they were.
My Lonely planet guide had informed me that in Dogubeyazit there was one hotel that was "suitable for lone women travellers." Ironically, it was called Tahran and run by an Iranian manager. Bilal, who had once been called Ahmet or whatever, but received this name when he joined the Hezbollah in his youth. He told me, he no longer prayed because "I have done so much praying when I was young, it is enough now." We all laughed.
Bilal, thank God, spoke English and had accepted my reservation on the phone.
So now I was in Dogubeyazit, got off the bus, and walked with my big suitcase through town. At the far end of the mainstreet I could see Mt. Ararat rising up in the distance, and up on the mountain slope, the place of my dreams- Ishak Pasha Sarayi, the beautiful Kurdish castle that I had been too scared to visit for years but had dreamed off seeing since autumn 2006, after I had met my first Kurdish friend. I was finally here!
The streets were deserted, it was the end of Ramadan, Bayram, and everybody on holiday, somewhere, in their own home.
I found the Tahran Hotel in a side street, and when I walked in, I saw a Kurd, very much looking like my first friend, with a sharply cut beautiful face, deep set eyes, chiseled eyebrows. These eyes now set on me, opened wide and emitted one bright turquoise flash, like lightening, and then narrowed again and assumed their normal expression. This handsome young receptionist, not Bilal, did not speak a word of English, but he handed me my key, explained that I could use the tea kitchen downstairs and pointed me to my room on the second floor. My room turned out to be simple, spotless, and indeed, "suitable for women"- it had lavender walls and white curtains! I felt safe here.
I settled in, took a shower, went down for some tea and then asked about a restaurant. It turned out that since it was Bayram, every restaurant in town was closed and he said, I should wait "until tomorrow", then they would all be open again.

I had to wander through several streets til I managed to find one street stall that was selling kofte, and that was my lunch. But I was happy to fill my stomach at last, and now, off to Ishak Pasha!

travel fever

I wrote this in October 2008, describing my dream to go to Dogubeyazit.

Three years later I went, in September 2011! I will tell you about that shortly, for now, please dream along with me reading that old blog post of mine when visiting Ishak Pasha Sarayi was still a far away dream, and a wallpaper photo on my desktop....

   Wed, October 1, 2008 - 9:48 AM

In German there is a word, "Fernweh", which can be translated as the longing to be far away...This is my affliction. Being back from Turkey I have done nothing but dream of my next trip... On this 4th trip I achieved one part of my agenda- doing plenty of dancing to my heart's content, and nobody stopping me. Being safe. Feeling at home. In fact, being mistaken for a Turk, which is more than I bargained for! Speaking enough Turkish to get aound and communicating with people who speak no English at all.
And now... here comes the next part of my dream-
I still want to go to Dogubeyazit. That place has never left my mind. Way out in Eastern Anatolia, next to Mount Ararat, on the border to Armenia, it is close to Ishak Pasha Sarayi, an ancient Oriental palace. Apparently, the only other Ottoman palace left over beside Topkapi. But this one is a mix of Ottoman, Selcuk, Georgian, Armenian and Persian architecture. And it is Kurdish. Today I watched a number of youtube videos showing it, and they all had these simple but powerful, passionate but wistful Kurdish songs. Melodies that Aynur has sung and others too, full of longing...
I keep thinking, I saw this palace in the Gurdjieff movie "Meetings with remarkable men", as the site of the Sufi dances. And when I read up on it, yes, Gurdjieff indeed was born in the city of Kars (the home of the exotic, black eyed Kurd I described in my blog on Bodrum) which is quite close to Dogubeyazit. but it says, the movie was made in Afghanistan... which is where the Kurds originally came from, it seems.
It is also the place where supposivley Noah's ark stranded and near Dogubeyazit is "Noah's ark national park".
Anyway, already almost two years ago my computer had a wallpaper of Ishak Pasha palace... and I keep dreaming.
I found a tour leading up to it, with a guide, offered on the internet, and it says, you can get there on a bus from Istanbul, in 22 hours, and cross the landscape of spectacular Turkish mountains... which is just what I would love to do. Rather than miss all this and fly out there by plane. I want the feeling of travelling, of drifting, of being out on an adventure, of satisfying the gypsy urges in my blood...
Now that I speak some Turkish and have lost my fear of traveling alone, maybe all I need to do is learn how to neatly tie a headscarf, just in case. I already got all the vaccinations for Kurdistan two years ago, Hepatitis A and B and tetanus and diphteria and typhoid, and then we only got as far as Antalya and the Turks begged me not to go any further East because "nobody goes to those places". But I still want to...

Wed, October 1, 2008 - 9:48 AM

That moment...

   Thu, September 25, 2008 - 12:15 PM

Today I heard: "When you feel lost think of a moment when you were deeply happy."
The memory that came to me was of that moment on that ship in Turkey when I was looking up into the starry sky, alone and feeling utterly free. I had just let go and felt ready to just go with the flow, uncertain and yet secure, being all alone in an unknown place and yet feeling so at home, looking up into the night sky, so wide, so far, so open, and my being expanded and unfolded, I opened my arms and raised them towards the stars and deeply inhaled the night air. And I felt happy.
This feeling has stayed with me, like a sense of inner warmth, like a newfound key.

Thu, September 25, 2008

Bodrum nights

   Mon, September 15, 2008 - 11:01 AM

 

As many people know, Bodrum's night life is notorious. I have heard more than one tour guide say:"When I am in Bodrum, I sit up by the pool bar of the hotel until 5am every night and wait until all the girls from my tour group are safely back in their hotel rooms...
Now, as I did not do anything really "bad" in Bodrum, I did go out and have fun. In day time, I would walk down to the sunny yacht harbour in the morning after breakfast and buy a ticket for a boat tour, and then spend all my day driving around on the Aegeis in dazzling sunshine, lying on the deck until I was deeply tanned, and when the boat stopped in yet another bay with blue and turquoise water, I would climb down that little ladder on the side of the boat and throw myself into the sea.
One time we stopped at "Cleopatra's mud bath". "Where is the mud??" I exclaimed, after downing a cocktail of vodka and pomegranate juice in the pier bar, and people pointed at the entrance of a cave in the rocks next to the wooden platform I was on. I lowered myself into the water, swam and crawled into the semi darkness of the grotto with some other swimmers, and there we scooped the mud and sand off the rocks and smeared each other with it laughing, until our skin was all smooth and glowing and it did do some job on your beauty, just like they said on the sign board: "Cleopatra's legendary beauty may have been due to her visiting this mud bath..."
The guys who had handed me the mud and rubbed my back with it then invited me to join them in their corner of the deck and we spent the rest of the tour lined up next to each other on the sun mats and sharing the ear phones of my i-pod. I was invited to go out together later by my ear phone-partner but declined as something else happened...
That night I went to a nice restaurant I had received directions to by my hotel manager as he was friends with the owner. I had dinner on a terrace over the sea, looking out into the dusk by candlelight. After a while I noticed an extraordinarily handsome waiter, very black hair, very black eyes, sharply curved eye brows, chiselled nose, long legs, a lean tall body, the exotic almost Arabic features of a Kurd...I kept watching him surreptitiously as I found him stunningly handsome. He must have noticed the way I looked at him, as after a while, after entertaining me like everyone else with bits of small talk, he came over again and asked me to come back in two hours when he would be finishing work. I answered his invitation with "Inshallah", which made him start with surprise, turn his head and shoot me an inquisitive look. Inshallah (Arabic for "With Allah's will") is a sure fire way of saying "maybe", a way of declining or dodging an invitation that no Moslem will argue with, and which is never answered with more questions and attempts at persuasion like any other answer might be.
However, less than two hours later I was walking down bar street again, this time to check out what else was going on there, I had not made up my mind about that invitation, and there he was, standing in the door of his restaurant to beckon people to come in. He spotted me and immediately talked me into coming inside for another drink. "Over there is a table especially reserved for you" he said, and pointed into the direction of a corner right by the sea. I was pretty sure that this is where he puts all his prospective dates and that all the other waiters knew that, too. Then he sat down and asked me whether I was alone or attached. "That is good because I am alone too", he said, and I thought to myself, that must he must be lying through his teeth, there is no way a man like that can go unattached for more than a few days... Well, I had not been completely honest myself, but thus, the game was on...
When all the guests had left, he came over, offered me another drink and started to flirt with me, in a kind of speeded up way. "Don't look at me like that", he said after a while, "You make me hot." I wondered whether this was due to me wearing my Arabic style black eyeliner belly dancer make up that he, as a Kurd, was reacting to? I stared back into his eyes and said slowly:"Your eyes are soo black..." He answered that I was embarrassing him, turned his head to the side and looked like he was almost going to blush. Haha, I still manage to make a man blush sometimes, even this wild looking exotic Kurd, I thought...Maybe he was not used to women flirting back in that way? Or felt caught in this whole staged scenario? Whatever, when he asked me to go out with him, I told him, that the owner of my hotel knew the owner of his restaurant, that the staff in my hotel had been carefully observing me all these days and I did not want people to start talking about me as I knew what they were thinking and did not like it. So, when we were ready to go, he said:"If you are worried about what people think, just follow me..." He instructed me to leave the restaurant before him, walk down the street for a while and wait there... I did, stopped at some store 200m down the street to buy cigarettes , and 5 minutes later, suddenly there he was. He told me to follow him quietly, and walked ahead, with me trailing about 3-5 meters behind, and thus, we walked off into the darkness to where noone could find us...; )
When I told this story to Özlem, the painter in Galatasaray on my way back in Istanbul, she laughed and said:"You were acting just like a Turkish girl!" "Why, is that how they do it?" "Yes", she said, "that is exactly the way they do it." ; )

Mon, September 15, 2008 - 11:01 AM

Bodruma geldım- On the nıght bus to Bodrum

   Wed, September 3, 2008 - 5:37 AM

 

Last nıght I took the Pamukkale bus for a 12 hour night rıde to Bodrum, on the Southern Aegean coast.
After sıttıng on the bus for a whıle, I checked my mobıle emaıl after never lookıng at ıt for days and found that my frıend ın Bodrum had let me down. ''I am not here anymore'', ıt saıd. Now, ınterestıngly, ınstead of feelıng sad and lonely, I got off the bus when ıt was parked on a car ferry crossıng some bay ın the Izmır area , I suppose, opened my arms, looked up ınto the dark starry nıght sky and felt utterly free, a sense of total freedom, beıng alone and yet, feelıng totally safe and at ease. So here I was, somewhere ın the mıddle of Turkey, alone, and now free to go anywhere I want. Shall I go to Konya and see Rumı's grave? Or maybe to Cappadokıa to see that fantastıc mountaınous landscape and those mystıcal caves agaın? Or cruıse over to Fethıye to hang out at the beautıful yacht harbour? Or maybe even Marmarıs, that notorıous rockıng pıcturesque tourıst trap I have never vısıted yet? No, not Marmarıs. Anyway, for the fırst tıme ın years, I felt lıke a genuıne traveller agaın, except that I am shleppıng a rıdıculous amount of overweıght luggage around Turkey ınsıde a fancy suıtcase wıth wheels ınstead of that backpack I used to carry on my trıps around Europe whenI was ın my teens.
So, at 10am I arrıved ın Bodrum after a nıght curled up as small as possıble on two bus seats dozıng ın and out of sleep. Now I have a lıttle room (''smallısh'' ındeed, just lıke Lonely planet saıd) wıth 3 hammocks ın the yard ın front of my wındow, and a cafe ın front wıth a roof of green leaves, and all thıs very cheap too. The people are helpful, and ıt took only 10 mınutes tıl the waıter offered to take me to the gyspy bar tonıght I want to go to.
However, after he bragged about all the languages he speaks, I asked hım whether he speaks Kurdısh too and he got upset and told me, he ıs a natıonalıst, so I have my doubts whether our ''date'' ıs stıll on, because I would not talk to hım anymore after that and he notıced. Oh well, ıt won't take long to fınd many other frıends here, I am sure.
And by the way, yesterday I was waıtıng at a bus stop ın Taksım wearıng my gypsy skırt and a Turksıh woman and her son told me, these were 'etnık' clothes and asked me:''Türkmüsünüz?''- Are you a Turk? Agaın ! Thıs was number 7 now. ; ) No, I am not a Turk but I do seem to look lıke one to many of them. And I have managed to get by on my lıttle bıts of Turkısh for the last couple of days, I am surprısed.

Wed, September 3, 2008 - 5:37 AM

İstanbuldayım!

   Mon, August 25, 2008 - 11:47 AM

İ am in İstanbul! I love it here, and at last seem to have found a way to enjoy Turkey wıthout any hastle. İ got a room in an artist's house, a nıce Turkish lady who put me up on her sofa tıl her other guests are leavıng tomorrow. İ am staying in the area where all the Turks hang out and not so many tourısts, so now I can walk around and just be one of them, noone ıs tryıng to sell me flying carpets or anything of the kınd because thıs ıs nowhere near Topkapı palace etc. I have already made frıends wıth the nıce old man at the tea shop around the corner who lets me use hıs hıs computer and trıes to explain the cryptic messages on my cellphone to me of whıch I don't understand a word neıther of what he says nor of the messages but I know ıt just means my number has been actıvated and I can call anyone I want now. Other than that we are talkıng and I use what bıts of Turksıh I have at hand and ıt works, more or less. Walkıng down Istıklal at dusk was great, so colourful, all the bustle, people havıng tea and the sounds of the backgammon boards everywhere. I love explorıng all the lıttle alleyways off the maın street where vegetable sellers are next to cafes and lıve houses and nargile are waıtıng on the staırs behınd the tables to be smoked later. Walking around wıth a body shop bag and a pound of nectarınes makes me feel so ordınary and at home, so dıfferent from the resorts where men were constantly beckonıng me ınto theır shops, where I have to answer questıons every other mınute about where I am from, what ıs my name, etcetcetc and everyone ıs just out to make a buck of some forlorn tourıst lıke me. ; )
Already set up appoıntments to see the Romanı dancers and musıcıans, and to vısıt S. at her house.
Last nıght I dıd not sleep, had to spend the nıght waıtıng to check in at 5am for my cheap flıght at an ungodly hour but too excıted to go to my sofa just yet.
Now I wıll have to drınk my 5th glass of tea and then maybe I really should go home, say hello to Mılky the cat and get some sleep

Homesick for the distance

There are places in the world that make you feel more homesick than ever when you return home, leaving you restless and dreaming of getting away to see them again, to find peace- like a lover that left too soon in the morning after a night of love and leaves you longing for his embrace. Turkey is one of them, Syria another....
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:Home

A Jordanian desert tour- Wadi Rum

Photos of a Jordanian desert tour

If you want to see something truly spectacular: here are my photos of Wadi Rum. The desert that was crossed by Lawrence of Arabia and Omar Sharif.
222 photos from Wadi Rum nature preserve in the desert https://picasaweb.google.com/113264861998536374583/WadiRumInJordanSSouth#

Sat, September 18, 2010

In the South of Jordan- Petra

The flight from Amman to Aqaba, the drive from Aqaba to Wadi Musa, and then: PETRA, one of the seven world wonders and a World Heritage Site. Enjoy, Petra is amazing, even if somewhat spoiled by tourism and greedy locals.
See my album of 99 photos from Petra, one of the 7 World Wonders
https://picasaweb.google.com/113264861998536374583/Jordan#

The reason why....

...I never went to see Lattakia but returned to Palmyra for another two days after Aleppo.
I found it very easy to adapt to their simple life style, it is like returning to an older, more natural state of being.

Wed, September 15, 2010

Aleppo and around

New photos from Aleppo and the surrounding area. More coming up tomorrow when the souk opens again after Eit, so stay tuned...
On the photo above you see St. Simeon/Qala'at Samman, the ruined basilica noth of Aleppo.

Sat, September 11, 2010 - 1:16 PM -

https://picasaweb.google.com/113264861998536374583/AleppoAndAround#

In Palmyra meeting the bedouins

Ended up staying three days in Palmyra, the desert town, instead of one, and half promised to some friends there to cancel half of my stay in Aleppo and come back there instead. Tonight they are having a big party for Eit al Fitr there. The muezzeen went on for an hour this morning after sunrise, with a whole chorus of people shouting "Allah akbar", "God is great", again and again. The end of Ramadan.
Later went with another bedouin friend into the desert on his motorbike, we climbed up to the top niche of a tomb with a great desert view, and danced in there together to bedouin music from his mobile phone. I almost shouted with delight, so much fun. Then he took me to his father's garden and picked me a few pomegranates and dates and gave me an olive twig for farewell presents. Then Baasil called me on my mobile because he knew I was leaving an hour later, and came to my hotel to say goodbye. When I arrived in the hotel lobby, he stood there, no longer in desert coloured jeans and tight shirt and green kefiyeh, but dressed up in an immaculate gleaming white dishdasha, with a cleanly wrapped shiny white kefiyeh, smiling his silent smile." Wow!" I said:"I tried to take your picture, but my camera broke, you are too beautiful for my camera!" It took me ten minutes to get it to work again, with new batteries from the store across the street, lots of fiddling with a pair of tweezers, plying the jammed lid for the battery case, but finally....
https://picasaweb.google.com/113264861998536374583/Palmyra?authkey=Gv1sRgCNbe_LyG8f2_9QE#

In Aleppo now, feeling like someone who ended up alone at Christmas, as everyone is celebrating Eit al Fitr with their families, even all the hotel staff is gone back to their villages, except one at the reception.

Fri, September 10, 2010 - 1:11 PM

Crossing the border back into Syria... on to Homs and Hama

Crossing the border back into Syria...

Sitting on the bus to Homs. This is a complete disaster and I regret that I did not take a service taxi. Felt like we spent almost an hour sitting around in the grubbiest part of the city, with more and more grubby, poor people getting on the bus and I had no idea when we were finally gonna depart and was unable to ask too as nobody spoke English. Now we are on the road and I sure am glad that I did not put Tripoli on my itinerary, oof!
I left Byblos this morning, after leaving a considerable sum of money there and am now looking forward to inexpensive Syria.
Bcharre was nice though a bit lonely as I felt like I was almost the only tourist in town. Met one other traveler who was staying in the room next to me in the Bauhaus pension. 30$ for a triple room with extra beds I did not need, and no service whatsoever, not even breakfast. Tony calls this "chalet style". I always thought, chalets were cottages...Well, it did have a communal kitchen that nobody seemed to use...
Here are my photos of Les Cedars and Bcharre in the beautiful Qadija valley which is the birth place of Khalil Gibran, the greatest of all poets... https://picasaweb.google.com/113264861998536374583/BcharreByblosBeiteddine# The image shows the hugging cedars in Les Cedars, Northern Lebanon

-------------------- In Hama now--------------------------------------------------------

One guy who looked like in a daze, with a bandage around his head and half covering one black swollen eye and an envelope with x-ray pics under his arm, got on the bus. When he kicked his suitcase down the aisle I felt scared because I thought, he acquired this injury in a recent fist fight. But maybe he was just too dizzy to bend over and pick up his luggage. Then a couple of young wives in headscarves, traveling with little kids. At the Syrian border they made me go in and finish my entry formalities and when I came back out, I could not find the bus and wondered if they had conspired to drive off with my suitcase and my rucksack with the netbook in it...After asking around, being pointed to a wrong bus full of strangers, I finally found it 100-200meters away around the corner, waiting. Then they dropped me by the side of the highway after whispering with the driver, and told me to get into a big yellow car there (a taxi without a sign??). The taxi driver again did not speak a word of English, and did not even know his way around in Homs, could not find my hotel that I asked him for. When he finally found it, he started carrying my suitcase up the staircase in a dilapidated old building with broken windows, in a dusty area of town, and I shouted, with the bits of Arabic I am capable of , thank God, from downstairs:"La, la!! La uhibbu!!" ('No,no, I don't like it!'), and told him to take me to a bank, so I could get some Syrian money, and then to the bus stop out of town with the buses going to the next city. He did, but he ripped me off- charged me 1000 Syrian pounds (about 16 $?) when for short taxi rides inside the city they charge only 50 pounds...
So when I got to Hama, and here they spoke English, were exceedingly helpful and moreover cheap (900 pounds for a room with shower and air con), I was so relieved...
Tomorrow I am off to the desert, to see Palmyra and meet the bedouins. = )

Mon, September 6, 2010 - 1:23 PM

On to Baalbek through Hezbollah country...and the art of riding Lebanese buses

Today I asked my way through to the bus to Baalbek from Zahle. First rejecting the taxi drivers, then asking several people, finally I talked to two women in Arabic and they stopped a taxi for me and told him to take me to the right bus stop down the road where the crossing is. Then I rode up the Bekaa valley, past a few soldiers, even saw a black tank parked by the road, until I arrived in Baalbek. There I had some coffee and hummus in a cafe, then asked the waiter for help and he took me to the entrance to the ruins and helped me hire a guide. And this is the result of an hour in the blazing sunshine, visiting the ancient temple of Bacchus where orgies have been celebrated, and seeing the temple of Jupiter and the sculpture of Cleopatra with the snake at her breast after she killed herself...The temples are gigantic, columns like 8 meters tall, towering over the valley..Baalbek is the highest point, the
Orontes and the Litani river both spring from here, flowing in opposite directions. On the way back I sat next to a young soldier in battle fatigues on the mini bus, and the two young men in front of me flashed me a photo of the Hezbollah chief with a grin on their faces. As the bus was driving down the bumpy road, Arabic music was playing loudly in the radio, in the familiar bellydance rhythm. Then we passed through a town where all the women were wearing hijab and I managed to form a question in Arabic and asked the girl next to me:"Ma ismu hadha madeena?"-what is the name of this town? "Ali Nakhle", she told me. I guess, anything starting with Ali means the people living there are Shia. We drove on, music playing, and tell you what: I got a kick out of this! The thrill of driving through a place that is very close to a territory where the embassies tell you not to enter, not knowing exactly where we were, feeling free and enjoying the smell of adventure. Yes, I noticed that the key to safe travel is speaking some Arabic and befriending the local people, accepting their friendly assistance whenever needed.

see my great photo album with 77 photos of Baalbek temples: https://picasaweb.google.com/113264861998536374583/BaalbekLebanonInTheBekaaValley#

Marhaban min Lubnan!- In Zahle, Lebanon, in the Bekaa valley

Marhaban min Lubnan!

   Tue, August 31, 2010 - 10:22 AM

Guys, I am in Lebanon!
I feel like, if you combined a town in the Black Forest or Tirol with a place in the Mediterranean, like Italy, you'd get this look here....
I also got a little adventurous and took out the golden Arabic metal applicator I bought on the Damascus souk yesterday and put on Arabic khol eyeliner with it. It worked and did not hurt. Yay! I can wear my strappy tops and dresses again, no longer walking around in billowing clothes and an occasional head scarf. ; )
Now I will stroll down to the river in Zahle and look for a nice open air restaurant to have dinner.

Tue, August 31, 2010 - 10:22 AM

In Damascus at last- Fallen in love with Al Sham!

Fallen in love with Al Sham!

My second night in Damascus. I returned after less than a week in Germany and again, even more so, it was somehow like coming home... My hotel is 400 years old and my room is up two narrow stone stairs which probably carry the foot prints of many, many generations of Damascene Arabs followed by many backpacker travellers, I sleep in a large heavy wooden bed in a small room with thick old walls, filled with pieces of antique Arabic furniture.
Tonight I ventured out into the souk again, this time I was almost ablle to find my way among the winding alleys, around the famous mosque, past countless shops selling bellydance costumes, fashionable hijab scarves, spices, perfumes, dried fruit, pastries, appliances...I already started to doubt whether the information I got from a fellow female traveler who works here as an intern, that "there are many places that say 'restaurant/cafe'" might actually be something like 'mataam wa kafwa" written in Arabic that I missed when I finally managed to discover where the alley with the restaurants was. Had dinner at "Bait al Shami", another old Arabic house with a large courtyard where dinner was served under a lemon tree and trellises of dangling grapes. I had my first glass of mulberry juice ever, and watercress salad which turned out to be chopped ruccola, perfectly fine with me, and "Shami kabop"/ Damascene kebab which was great.
Again I spent most of the evening communicating with my bits of recently acquired Arabic, and still don't know whether people actually speak English here as I have been told they would. I am so happpy, every time I manage to form another sentence from my Arabic vocabulary. And they do understand, yay! Nobody tries to switch to English when I do that. ; )
Then I picked my way back between the carts of nuts, little shops full of perfume flasks, raising my arms in mock despair at the car stuck and trying to move between the stone walls, pedestrians and carts of merchandise, exchanging smiles with a couple Arabic women in hijab. Walking home, feeling happy, and deeply inhaling the mixture of fragrances emanating from the shops, a heady blend of spices, perfumes, soap and waterpipe tobacco, and relaxing into my ancient surroundings, feeling part of it and very much at home. I am in love with this city, Al Shams/Damascus is called the oldest city in the world!
see 62 photos of Damascus and a bit of Zahle https://picasaweb.google.com/113264861998536374583/SYRIAANDLEBANON#

Sun, August 29, 2010 - 3:09 PM

headed to Lebanon, feeling really brave....

So yours truly is headed to Lebanon, feeling really brave....

Tue, August 17, 2010 - 8:03 AM

Tell me what you think:


Hariri persists with calls for calm as tribunal tensions simmer
Politicians gear up for week of tense talks on draft oil law, defense
By Elias Sakr
Daily Star staff
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
BEIRUT: Ambiguity continues to surround the tug of war among Lebanese parties over investigations into former Prime Minister Rafik Hariri’s murder as Premier Saad Hariri remains silent over Hizbullah’s refusal to cooperate with the UN-backed tribunal.
Prime Minister Saad Hariri reiterated on Monday for the third consecutive day the need to commit to calm political rhetoric away from media provocations to allow room for dialogue in the interest of Lebanon’s stability.
As the political stalemate over Lebanon’s position vis-a-vis the UN probe persisted, politicians prepared to engage in heated discussions during the course of this week over the ratification of an oil law draft, the approval of a plan to equip the Lebanese Army and deliberation on a defense strategy.
Lawmakers are scheduled to debate Tuesday at Parliament the country’s draft oil law while the Cabinet is scheduled on Wednesday to discuss a three-year plan to equip the Lebanese Army prior to a meeting Thursday of the National Dialogue to discuss a defense strategy.
“We do not fear for Lebanon due to political noise and we hope that it calms down and turns into calm rhetoric to allow for democratic dialogue,” Hariri said during an iftar at his residence in Qoreitem on Monday.
“We call on all Lebanese during the holy month of Ramadan to preserve this spirit and give ourselves a new opportunity … to resolve our issues calmly away from tensions and escalation,” he added.
Hariri met Speaker Nabih Berri on Sunday. He called during an iftar later that night on domestic parties to commit to calm political rhetoric away from trading accusations over investigations into his father’s murder.
“A lot of you expect me to take a stance but I said yesterday that I will decide when to talk … no matter what the dispute among political parties is, we should not trade accusations of treason, lies and insults,” Hariri said.
On Saturday, Hariri stressed his commitment to preserving calm and stability in Lebanon as well as the truth behind the assassination of his father.
“Saad Hariri and all Lebanese want the truth and nothing more and they also want stability and [to know] who was responsible for the assassination of Hariri and the other martyrs,” the premier said.
Hariri warned that chaos and instability could not emanate from void but could only result from a decision to instigate them.
“We, as those who are responsible for this country, can face the worst attacks, whether they are Israeli or not, if we act wisely and calmly among each other,” Hariri said.
“I abstained from making statements during the past period and I will continue to do so because I want calm,” Hariri added.
Regional powerbrokers Syria and Saudi Arabia have both urged Lebanese parties, during a visit by the Syrian president and Saudi monarch to Lebanon last month, to commit to calm political rhetoric in a bid to ease growing tensions over the impending indictment by the Special Tribunal for Lebanon (STL).
Fears of Sunni-Shiite strife in Lebanon rose after Western and Israeli media reports claimed that the STL’s indictment would accuse Hizbullah members of involvement in the assassination.
Hizbullah leader Sayyed Hassan Nasrallah has criticized the STL as an “Israeli project” and stressed that his party had no trust in the UN-backed tribunal and would not cooperate with it directly.
During a news conference last Monday, Nasrallah presented information which he said implicated Israel in the murder, but the party has not yet handed the documents to the Lebanese judiciary after Prosecutor Said Mirza made a verbal request for the information in Hizbullah’s possession.
Mirza’s request followed a demand by STL Prosecutor Daniel Bellemare for information Nasrallah presented to the public.
While the parliamentary majority continues to stress the STL’s independence and exclusive right to investigate evidence and later issue an indictment, Hizbullah and its opposition allies have recently called for the formation of a Lebanese investigation committee.
Read more: http://www.dailystar.com.lb/article.asp?edition_id=1&categ_id=2&article_id=118268#ixzz0wsLlty9w
(The Daily Star :: Lebanon News :: http://www.dailystar.com.lb/)

Tue, August 17, 2010 - 8:03 AM -

Oh bloody hell! I am about to buy a ticket to Aqaba

The moment I tried to book an online ticket from Beirout to Aqaba on Royal Jordanian Airlines- news came in that a bomb dropped on the parking lot, 20m from the entrance to the Hyatt in Aqaba.

Tue, August 3, 2010 - 12:51 AM

Sitting at my computer trying to make up my mind about buying the ticket from Beirut to Aqaba/Jordan and just received from the smarttraveller service I subscribed to:

This advice has been reviewed and reissued. It contains new information under Terrorism (artillery rocket attack near international hotel in Aqaba on 2 August). The overall level of the advice has not changed.

Summary
•We advise you to exercise a high degree of caution in Jordan because of the high threat of terrorist attack.
•Pay close attention to your personal security at all times and monitor the media for information about possible new safety and security risks.
•We continue to receive reports that terrorists may be planning attacks in Jordan against Westerners and places frequented by Westerners or associated with Western interests.
•Terrorists have attacked international hotels in Jordan. Tourist hotels throughout Jordan, in particular in Amman, Aqaba, the Dead Sea and other resort areas, are potential targets for attack. For further information on possible targets, see Safety and Security: Terrorism.
•Political developments in the region may prompt demonstrations in Jordan. These demonstrations could turn violent and should be avoided.
•Pandemic (H1N1) 2009 has spread throughout the world. The World Health Organization (WHO) provides useful information for individuals and travellers on its website. For further information and advice to Australians, including on possible quarantine measures overseas, see our travel bulletin on Pandemic (H1N1) 2009.
•Be a smart traveller. Before heading overseas:
◦organise comprehensive travel insurance and check what circumstances and activities are not covered by your policy
◦register your travel and contact details, so we can contact you in an emergency
◦subscribe to this travel advice to receive free email updates each time it’s reissued.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On this page:
Summary
Safety and Security
Local Laws
Entry and Exit Requirements
Health Issues
Where to Get Help
Safety and Security
Terrorism
Terrorism is a threat throughout the world. You can find more information about this threat in our General Advice to Australian Travellers.

We advise you to exercise a high degree of caution in Jordan because of the high threat of terrorist attack. Pay close attention to your personal security at all times and monitor the media for information about possible new safety and security risks.

We continue to receive reports that terrorists may be planning attacks in Jordan against Westerners and places frequented by Westerners or associated with Western interests. International hotels have been attacked by terrorists in the past and further attacks cannot be ruled out. On 22 April 2010 an artillery rocket fired towards the Israeli city of Eilat, landed in the adjoining Jordanian city of Aqaba, causing minor damage. On 2 August 2010, a similar rocket exploded outside an international hotel in Aqaba, killing one and injuring four. On 14 January 2010 an Israeli convoy was the target of a roadside bombing on the Amman to Dead Sea road. These incidents highlight the risk to Australians in Jordan from attacks directed at others.

A public statement in March 2008, purportedly by a senior al-Qa'ida figure, called for attacks against Jordan. Possible targets include tourist hotels in Amman, Aqaba, the Dead Sea, Petra, Jerash and other cities and resort areas. Attacks could also be directed at embassies and consulates of countries that are part of the coalition in Iraq, including by implication the Australian Embassy, US and UK military bases and Jordanian government sites. Al-Qa'ida bombed three international hotels in Amman in 2005 and has also assassinated targeted foreigners in Jordan and could do so again.

In planning your activities, consider the types of places known to be terrorist targets and the level of security provided at these places. Tourist areas and attractions throughout Jordan and tourists travelling to or from these places, including those in tour groups or tour buses, could be targeted. Other possible terrorist targets in Jordan include hotels, restaurants, bars, nightspots, clubs, sporting clubs and sporting venues, international fast food outlets, supermarkets, markets, bars, cinemas, theatres, office buildings, public transport, pedestrian promenades, universities, places of worship, expatriate residential areas and schools, outdoor recreation events or identifiably Western or Jewish businesses and interests.

The central business and embassy districts of Amman, including embassies, other metropolitan and tourist centres and premises, symbols and buildings associated with the Jordanian Government, key transport infrastructure including airports, petrol stations, shopping centres and shopping malls are also possible targets.

You should be vigilant in the lead up to and on days of national or religious significance as terrorists may choose to use these occasions to mount attacks.

Civil Unrest/Political Tension
International events or political developments in the region may prompt demonstrations in Jordan. These demonstrations could turn violent and should be avoided.

You should avoid all large gatherings, including those at university campuses, near mosques and Palestinian refugee camps as they may become violent. The risk of violent disturbances is higher on Fridays, near main city mosques and downtown areas of Amman (East Amman) after midday prayers.

Crime
Petty crime is a concern, especially in downtown and wealthier parts of Amman. Unattended bags have been stolen in hotels. Bags have also been snatched from pedestrians by thieves in passing vehicles. Victims have been knocked to the ground and sometimes dragged. Bags should be carried on the side away from the kerb. Burglaries also occur.

You should be vigilant when using ATMs.

Women are vulnerable to harassment, which can include leering, unwanted physical contact and stalking. There have been several incidents of sexual assault against foreign women. You should avoid walking alone after dark and in isolated places. See also Local Travel below.

In September 2006, a lone gunman shot at a group of foreign tourists and their tour guide close to the Roman ruins in downtown Amman, killing one person and injuring six, including a Jordanian police officer. In February 2008, a Western tourist was stabbed in the same area, while a gunman wounded six people as they boarded a bus near the ruins in July 2008.

Local Travel
Unexploded munitions, including landmines, are still a danger along Jordan’s northern border, particularly around military installations. Known minefields are usually fenced and marked, but these warnings may not be obvious.

The border crossing point between Jordan and the West Bank could be closed at very short notice. For details about travel to the West Bank, see our travel advice for Israel, Gaza Strip and West Bank.

Police perform random security checks of vehicles on Jordanian highways and you are advised to carry identification documents to present at checkpoints.

Women should avoid travelling alone, particularly at night. Serious assaults by taxi drivers on lone female passengers have been reported. Where possible, women should avoid sitting in the front seat of a taxi and use a recommended taxi company and driver. You should pay attention to your immediate surroundings and exercise judgement.

Jordan has a high accident road toll. Roads can be hazardous at night, particularly in rural areas where stray livestock and unlit vehicles are common, and you should avoid driving outside the cities after dark. For further advice, see our bulletin on Overseas Road Safety. Vehicles must carry an extinguisher and a warning triangle.

The safety standards you might expect of transport and tour operators, including adventure activities, might not always be met. Sufficient safety equipment may not be provided and recommended maintenance standards and safety precautions may not be observed.

We strongly recommend Australians do not travel to Iraq due to the extremely dangerous security situation and very high threat of terrorist attack. If you plan to go to Iraq, you should first read our travel advisory for Iraq.

Airline Safety
Please refer to our travel bulletin for information about Aviation Safety and Security.

Natural Disasters, Severe Weather and Climate
Jordan is located in an active earthquake zone.

Sand and dust storms can occur, particularly in desert areas.

Flooding, including flash floods, can occur in valleys (wadis) from November to March.

Rock falls and landslips can also occur in valleys and other natural rock fissures and formations. You should take particular care in these areas.

Information on natural disasters can be obtained from the Humanitarian Early Warning Service. If a natural disaster occurs, follow the advice of local authorities.

Wildlife
Australians are advised to respect wildlife laws and to maintain a safe and legal distance when observing wildlife, including marine animals and birds. You should only use reputable and professional guides or tour operators and closely follow park regulations and wardens' advice.

Money and Valuables
Before you go, organise a variety of ways to access your money overseas, such as credit cards, travellers' cheques, cash, debit cards or cash cards. Australian currency and travellers' cheques are not accepted in many countries. Consult with your bank to find out which is the most appropriate currency to carry and whether your ATM card will work overseas.

Make two photocopies of valuables such as your passport, tickets, visas and travellers' cheques. Keep one copy with you in a separate place to the original and leave another copy with someone at home.

While travelling, don't carry too much cash and remember that expensive watches, jewellery and cameras may be tempting targets for thieves.

As a sensible precaution against luggage tampering, including theft, lock your luggage. Information on luggage safety is available from the Civil Aviation Safety Authority.

Your passport is a valuable document that is attractive to criminals who may try to use your identity to commit crimes. It should always be kept in a safe place. You are required by Australian law to report a lost or stolen passport. If your passport is lost or stolen overseas, report it online or contact the nearest Australian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate as soon as possible.

Australians are required to pay an additional fee to have their passport replaced. In some cases, the Government may also restrict the length of validity or type of replacement passports.

For Parents
For general information and tips on travelling with children see our Travelling Parents brochure.

If you are planning on placing your children in schools or childcare facilities overseas we encourage you to research the standards of security, care and staff training within those establishments. You should exercise the same precautions you would take before placing children into schools or childcare facilities in Australia.

Ideas on how to select childcare providers are available from the smartraveller Children’s Issues page, Child Wise and the National Childcare Accreditation Council.

Local Laws
When you are in Jordan, be aware that local laws and penalties, including ones that appear harsh by Australian standards, do apply to you. If you are arrested or jailed, the Australian Government will do what it can to help you but we can’t get you out of trouble or out of jail.

Information on what Australian consular officers can and cannot do to help Australians in trouble overseas is available from the Consular Services Charter.

Australians who might engage in activities that involve local legal matters, particularly with regard to family law (divorce, child custody and child support), are strongly advised to seek professional advice and ensure they are aware of their rights and responsibilities. See also Entry and Exit Requirements below.

Penalties for drug offences are severe and include life imprisonment. Penalties for possession of even small quantities of 'soft' drugs include mandatory prison sentences.

Serious crimes, such as murder, treason and rape, may attract the death penalty.

Hard labour may be imposed for offences causing personal injury or property damage.

Adultery (including consensual sex between unmarried couples) may be punished by up to 3 years imprisonment.

Australians wishing to marry in Jordan should confirm legal requirements prior to travel, either from the Australian Embassy in Amman or the Jordanian Embassy in Canberra.

Under Jordanian law, drivers are considered guilty if they are involved in an accident in which a pedestrian is injured. They face possible prison terms and payment of financial compensation.

It is illegal to photograph embassies, military and security installations and sites. You should obey all signs prohibiting photography of official buildings. You should seek consent before photographing people.

You should check local regulations and sensitivities before engaging in missionary work, preaching or other religious activities.

Some Australian criminal laws, such as those relating to money laundering, bribery of foreign public officials, terrorism and child sex tourism, apply to Australians overseas. Australians who commit these offences while overseas may be prosecuted in Australia.

Australian authorities are committed to combating sexual exploitation of children by Australians overseas. Australians may be prosecuted at home under Australian child sex tourism laws. These laws provide severe penalties of up to 17 years imprisonment for Australians who engage in sexual activity with children under 16 while outside of Australia.

Local Customs
There are strict standards of modest dress and behaviour in Jordan. You should take care not to offend.

You should avoid eating, drinking and smoking in public between sunrise and sunset during Ramadan. See our Ramadan 2010 Travel Bulletin for further information.

Public displays of affection between couples are not socially acceptable and may cause offence in many parts of Jordan.

It is not socially acceptable for unmarried couples to live together or share accommodation.

Homosexual relations are not socially acceptable in Jordan.

Cultural and social expectations vary between regions of Jordan. If in doubt, seek local advice.

Information for Dual Nationals
Dual nationals are considered Jordanian while in Jordan.

Compulsory military service has been suspended. However, all Jordanian males between 18 and 40 years, including dual nationals, are required to register for Jordanian military service and postpone their service each year. Eligible males who fail to register may be prevented from leaving Jordan.

Our Travel Information for Dual Nationals brochure provides further information for dual nationals.

Entry and Exit Requirements
Visa and other entry and exit conditions (such as currency, customs and quarantine regulations) change regularly. Contact the nearest Embassy or Consulate of Jordan for the most up-to-date information.

Foreigners wishing to stay more than one month in Jordan must register with the police and may be required to undergo medical and HIV tests.

A valid yellow fever vaccination certificate is required for entry into Jordan if you have come from or transited an area where there is a risk of transmission.

Under Jordanian law, a husband may prevent his wife and children from leaving Jordan, even if they are Australian citizens.

If you travel between Jordan and Israel, you may experience difficulties in or be refused entry to some Arab and Muslim nations if your passport has evidence of travel to Israel, including entry and exit stamps issued at border crossings in Jordan, or if your luggage has stickers indicating you have been to Israel.

Make sure your passport has at least six months' validity from your planned date of return to Australia. You should carry copies of a recent passport photo with you in case you need a replacement passport while overseas.

Health Issues
Pandemic (H1N1) 2009 has spread throughout the world. The World Health Organization (WHO) provides useful information for individuals and travellers on its website. For further information and advice to Australians, including on possible quarantine measures overseas, see our travel bulletin on Pandemic (H1N1) 2009.

We strongly recommend that you take out comprehensive travel insurance that will cover any overseas medical costs, including medical evacuation, before you depart. Confirm that your insurance covers you for the whole time you’ll be away and check what circumstances and activities are not included in your policy. Remember, regardless of how healthy and fit you are, if you can't afford travel insurance, you can't afford to travel. The Australian Government will not pay for a traveller's medical expenses overseas or medical evacuation costs.

Your doctor or travel clinic is the best source of information about preventive measures, immunisations (including booster doses of childhood vaccinations) and disease outbreaks overseas. The World Health Organization (WHO) provides information for travellers and our Travelling Well brochure also provides useful tips for travelling with medicines and staying healthy while overseas.

Outside major cities, Jordan's health services are basic. Most high quality medical services in Amman are private and cash payment is expected in advance. In the event of serious illness, accident or for complex medical procedures, medical evacuation to a destination with appropriate medical facilities could be necessary. Medical evacuation costs would be considerable.

Water-borne, food-borne, mosquito-borne and other infectious diseases (including hepatitis, typhoid, measles, brucellosis, sand fly fever, rabies and schistosomiasis) are prevalent with more serious outbreaks occurring from time to time. We encourage you to consider having vaccinations before travelling, including booster doses of childhood vaccinations, and take precautions against being bitten by insects, including using insect repellent at all times. You should boil all drinking water or drink bottled water and avoid ice cubes and raw and undercooked food. Seek medical advice if you have a fever or are suffering from diarrhoea.

The World Organisation for Animal Health (OIE) has confirmed cases of avian influenza in birds in a number of countries throughout the world, including Jordan. For a list of these countries, visit the OIE website. For information on our advice to Australians on how to reduce the risk of infection and on Australian Government precautions see our travel bulletin on avian influenza.

Where to Get Help
In Jordan, you can obtain consular assistance from the:

Australian Embassy
41 Kayed Al Armouti Street
Abdoun Al Jonoubi
Amman, JORDAN
Telephone: (962 6) 580 7000
Facsimile: (962 6) 580 7001
Email: amman.consular@dfat.gov.au
Website: www.jordan.embassy.gov.au

The working week is Sunday to Thursday, in accordance with local practice.

If you are travelling to Jordan, whatever the reason and however long you’ll be there, we encourage you to register with the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade. You can register online or in person at any Australian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate. The information you provide will help us to contact you in an emergency – whether it is a natural disaster, civil disturbance or a family issue.

In a consular emergency if you are unable to contact the embassy, you can contact the 24-hour Consular Emergency Centre on +61 2 6261 3305 or 1300 555 135 within Australia.

In Australia, the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade in Canberra may be contacted on (02) 6261 3305.

This Advice was issued on Tuesday, 03 August 2010, 16:05:44, EST.

Tue, August 3, 2010 - 12:51 AM

Crossing Cultures- My first coffee with women from Saudi Arabia

Today I arrived early for my class at the Arabic Islamic institute. When we have spare time, we have a special place to hang out: the "women's floor". So, in through the sheltered women's door down the little garden path and up to the women's floor where we can all sit around a low table, some of us on the chairs and some on the thick, lush Persian carpet.
Today the place was already taken- to my surprise there was a whole group of women and children, and all of them Arab. After a while I ventured back down from the school and found that two of my classmates had joined their party. So I sat down on the carpet, curled under my legs, drew my Indian silk scarf closer around my shoulders and arms and was offered some cake on of them had brought. Here they all were, some with their hair completely covered in hijab, some more loosely, all in long sleeves and even one without hijab and in tight Western clothes. And some of them were stunningly beautiful.
"The cake is nice", I said to the one who had brought it and she gave me a brilliant, delighted smile. "My Aunty Norah made it", she said, and pointed at an older woman in black hijab. "My Aunty Norah is my mother's friend, and I have to show respect to all my mother's friends." "And so you call them all Aunty?" I asked. "Yes." "This is like in Turkey where I never know who is really brothers with who", I said and laughed.
I noticed one woman moving among them. Slender, with graceful movements, a delicate body completely covered by a black abaya. But one of the most exquisite abayas I have ever seen. Made of thin black and slightly stiff silk, with the most intricate subtle embroidery, black on black, a veil slung softly over her head and framing her face with beautiful wavy lines down both sides, her curly hair cascading down underneath it. Her face was dramatically beautiful, with large, expressive dark exotic eyes, her brows black perfect arches on her immaculate skin, her lips forming another dramatic red contrast to her light skin and her black hair, her nose a beautifully chiseled curve never seen in a European woman. All I could think was:"You can make her wear all black, you can hide her body under a long loose dress that shows nothing but her hands, so one can barely sense it's lines, you can make her wear a veil, and still her beauty shines radiantly through it all, maybe even more so, because some of it is hidden...."
They gave me a cup of their fragrant Saudi coffee. A hitherto unexperienced taste- coffee without milk but delicately flavoured with cardamom and other spices, a taste I love.
Then the woman in black silk said she had to leave. And started to get dressed for going outside. I watched her in growing amazement. I have seen the final results but I have never before seen one of them while putting this on.
She now put on a cloak, drew a second scarf over her hair, drew it tight around the forehead so the hair disappeared. Then, with quick skilled movements, draped, wrapped and tucked the cloth around her face, her neck, her shoulders until it formed a beautifully folded shape which hid all the skin below her face from view. Then came another black loose hood which she pulled over the other scarf and down her forehead, almost below her eyebrows. And then one more cloth- over her head it went and down her face.The upper edge went under the hood and rested on her nose and now she had completely disappeared- her body, her shoulders, her throat, her hair, her forehead and her face, all invisible under the scarves. And then she left- turned around once more, greeted us, waved and took the elevator. After she was gone, I asked the other women:"But can you see, like this?" "Oh, yes, we can, perfectly" one said, "we don't even feel it!"

Wed, June 30, 2010 - 8:47 AM

Reply from Damascus

Ticket to get away from it all

Fri, May 28, 2010 - 10:08 AM

Eat your heart out, I have a reservation! Ahmed has replied to my email with a message from Damascus!

"The 400-year old house was renovated by the Ota Bashi Center of Arab Heritage, which has nearly 200 years experience in ancient Arab decoration world-wide...The two-storey historical house has rooms restored in Ottoman decorative styles, where the guests can feel at home.Sit back in one of the house's two open courtyards and enjoy a cup of mint tea or cardamom coffee. Or simply admire the terrace view of the Qasiun mountain and imagine the years gone by."

Fri, May 28, 2010 - 10:08 AM

Travel headaches again- help!

Travel headaches again- help!

So I got a flight to Damascus. However, Turkish Airlines is booked up and they put me on Qatar Air for now and I am stuck with the headache of finding a cheap way to get from Damascus to Frankfurt and back. Ok, so German holiday charter flights do not fly into Syria. Nor Jordan, nor Lebanon. I could get as far as to/fromAntalya in Turkey, and then spend 700-800km on several buses, trying to cross the Syrian border near Aleppo, round trip. Or I could fly to Tel Aviv. Then I would have to hide the fact I have been to Israel because otherwise I will not be allowed into Syria again. Charter flights from Germany do fly into Tel Aviv, strangely. Rather close to Syria but sounds like a huge, unnecessary hastle. Also not quite safe... Then there is a cheap flight from/to Cyprus. In Cyprus, again, to travel from Northern Cyprus to Southern Cyprus, you have to hide the fact that you have been to Turkey coz they do not like that either. And Cyprus operates no ferry service to either Lebanon nor Syria,. apparenlty, so I would be stuck on this close by island like in a dead end road, unless I fly into Lebanon from there. I also found a 900$ flight to Syria...Or I could dish out over 500$ and fly from Damascus direct to Frankfurt, but that would be double of what I would pay otherwise on German charter flights. ARGHHHH! And I have a new travel agency employee who booked me a flight from Doha to Damascus, correct flight number, but wrote on the itinerary that the flight's destination is Madrid, so I have to go to their office and raise hell about how sloppy they are. Oof.

Mon, May 24, 2010 - 11:32 PM

One Arabic approach to flirtation- Jane Digby buys a horse

 

One Arabic approach to flirtation- Jane Digby buys a horse

from "The biography of Jane Digby, a Scandalous life"

"In the desert encampment Jane had seen a thoroughbred Arabian horse which exactly matched her requirements, the duchess said. It belonged to a handsome young sheikh who, when Janese offered to buy the magnificent creature, told her it was unrideable. 'If the horse were able to be broken to ride', the sheikh told Jane, 'it would be beyond price'. But even as she stood, the sheikh said, he valued the animal above his three beautiful wives. Jane replied that, though a fine horse was to be treasured, three beauiful wives should not be disdained. She suggested that he sent the horse to her to see if she could ride it. Agreeing that 'sometimes a woman succeeds where a man fails because she knows when to yield', the sheikh had two of his Arabs lead the horse to Jane.
She had been breaking and riding thoroughbred horses all her life, and, knowing her skill as an equestrienne, the duchess and Edmond About found no difficulty ihn believing that within a short period their friend had managed to persuade the horse to take the saddle and was able to ride her.
When he saw her galloping the 'unbreakable' horse, the sheikh found Jane more exciting than his three wives put together. He said to her, 'This animal is now priceless since you were able to dominate her, but if you still want her it is not with your money that you will have to pay for her.'
Jane, who had been admiring the sheikh, replied:'I will pay what you wish for the horse, I have not come such a distance to haggle. But the women of my country are too proud to share a man's heart; they only enter a tent on condition that they reign alone, and I will pay you for your horse only on condition that you dismiss your harem.'
The sheikh said heatedly, 'Men of my country take as many wives as they can afford to keep; if I dismiss my harem to live with one woman alone I will appear like a 1200 franc clerk. Besides, I must follow my religion, set an exemple to my people and respect the old ways.'
...They discussed the matter for a long time before they reached an agreement, and at the present time Jane is the sole wife of the sheikh. She has a three year contract and when this expires the sheikh, if he so wishes, may take back his harem. The contract is renewable, but will it be renewed? I doubt it. Woman is a fruit that ripens quickly under the Syrian sun.
The Duchesse soon got over Jane's departure, having taken the precaution of quarreling with her prior to her departure so as not to miss her."

Wed, January 20, 2010 - 10:48 PM

Lady Jane Digby rides through the desert to Bagdad, 1854

Lady Jane Digby rides through the desert to Bagdad, 1854 

Barak rushed into her tent demanding that she hide her sheikh's scarlet mantle but it was already too late. Jahe heard the cries of the attackers and reached for a gun but, as she turned, an Arab on a chestnut horse, the sharpened point of his lance held before him, rode into the open tent and 'made us fairly his prisoners'. A large group of 'ruffians' herded them off to the conquerer's tents.
Not surprisingly, Eugenie was extremely frightened, insisting hysterically, 'Oh, we shall be sold as slaves.' Not so Jane. The raiders, she learned, were members of the M'wayaja tribe. She scribbled hurried notes into her brown notebook, dismissing her captors as canaille. 'Not one prepossesing face amongst them!' she wrote. 'How different from the handsome Jordan set.' She was unafraid and, though she felt sorry for Eugenie's distress, had to admit that 'In my heart I have enjoyed the experience so far, and was glad of witnessing it.'
The following day, after much consultation,Barak paid the ransom demanded for the release of persons, camels and tents, but they had to stand by while many of their personal belongings were openly taken off them. When this was done Jane assumed that they would be released, but they were still guarded by a fierce Arab woman wielding a large club and ruffian looking guards who insisted they were not to move until their sheikh, Faris ebn Hedeb, returned. It seemed that Sheikh Faris had had second thoughts and now wished to press for more ransom money. As night fell, the men gathered around the coffee hearth to negotiate terms. Fascinated, Jane placed her bed-roll outside the tent so that she could watch and listen.

True kindness

Today I received a parcel in the mail. It is the lavender coloured Indian silk blouse, the one that I am wearing on my avatar, during the camel tour in the Thar desert of Rajasthan.
After I returned to Tokyo, I wrote a thank you-mail to Lois Mason, the owner of the Desert Moon Guesthouse in Jaisalmer. (www.desertmoonguesthouse.com) and mentioned that my silk blouse did not seem to be in my suitcase and could it be that her dhobi-man (the laundry person) forgot to return it from the wash? She went looking for it and wrote back, no, it was not there. But where did I stay next after Jaisalmer? Could I send her the name of the hotel, she would call them and find out if I forgot it in the next place, maybe. So I sent her the phone number of the beautiful Ratan Vilas hotel in Jodhpur which also has a very kind manager, and she called them twice, reminding them to search for it and then she sent me another mail, saying that she had good news finally, that indeed, they found it! And that she had told them to send it to her so that she could ship it to Japan for me.... Ratan Vilas promised that the next time someone of their staff made a trip to Jaisalmer (5 hours drive away from there on mostly desert roads) they would give him the blouse and have it delivered to Desert Moon into Lois' hands. After 2-3 weeks someone finally did travel over there through the desert and Lois sent me another mail that she had it and would post it. Meanwhile, I told a friend who went to India yesterday all about Desert Moon and it's wonderful, kind and thoughtful owner and started arranging for Rajasthani/kalbeliya dance lessons for her which Lois offered to have held on her roof, with a dancer provided by Jaisalmer's culture center.
And then another mail came, with Lois saying that she had finally made it to the post office and sent the blouse by speed post and now it is here! Back with me, after an odyssee through the Thar desert, city to city, retrieved from oblivion. I am touched when I look at it.
My kathak teacher was enchanted when I told her this story and asked me for the address of Desert Moon, and said, this is a happening that is unheard of in India!
Thank you so much, Lois, I owe you one! I hope, everyone who thinks about going to Jaisalmer will find this on the net.

Wed, October 28, 2009 - 7:08 AM

Arm Chair Travel

arm chair travel

So I am finally experiencing the real thrill of arm chair traveling. Reading "Bad Lands" by Tony Wheeler of Lonely planet, my breath stopped for a moment when he described, in the chapter on Iraq, how he decided to enter it. Take a plane to Istanbul, hang out at Kadikoy harbour, then take a plane from Sabina Gokcen airport (was there myself this September) to Diyarbakir (this is when I stopped breathing) and as soon as he left the airport, he was surrounded by taxi drivers who kept asking him:"Want to go to Iraq? Want to go to Iraq?"
Wow!
So, experiencing the delicious chill of sitting safely in my chair, I followed him in the description of his adventures starting from there. He had decided, in 2006 (4 months or so before I landed in Turkey for the first time) that the "safe" part of Iraq for traveling was- Kurdistan! And took the taxi from Diyarbakir to Kirkuk...and I share his feeling of doing crazy things like visiting museums and buying kebab while sort of wondering what on earth one is doing here, other than satisfying some mad urge to enter the unknown, just breaking out of the normal, usual everyday world into the thrillof something brandnew and therefore, much more interesting...Something one must see sooner or later while there is still time.
The other book I am reading is "Lonely planet guide to Lebanon and Syria". So far, I understand that Lebanon sounds a lot more pleasant and easier on lone women than Syria. No hijab, no jellabas, no off-limit all men coffeeshops...women in Beirut wearing skimpy sun dresses and lots of make up, tehre are plenty of night clubs in Beirut to go dancing etc., it seems...on the other hand, Lebanon is just as expensive as North America, it says, and this is a real bummer. So, Lebanon sounds like fun, adn you just have to keep checking on the political situation because tehre is always a chance that you will be surprised by dropping bombs...But transport sounds really iffy, outside the major cities...Uhuh...And then there are all these chapters on trekking and hiking and mountain climbing and advice which mountain boots to pack...
Syria, on the other hand, seems very safe crime-wise. It says, people do not steal there. Wow! Now that is a new one in the Middle East. the only Mediterranean country I know where people don't steal is Greece, I never knew about Syria. It also says, Syria has good transport, people are really nice and friendly (apart from the heavy restrictions for women bit), and it is rather cheap, apparently. And Damascus seems to be the oldest city on earth... I have a feeling, I will got there sooner or later. Last but not least I am running the tribe for a Damascene poet who also lived in Beirut, Nizar Qabbani.
I have already finished "In Arabian nights" and Lonely Planet Morocco is sitting in my shelf too...
But as far as Babylon, Kirkuk and Tabriz are concerned, I think I will stick to arm chair traveling for now. And this is real hair raising fun, I have just discovered!

Wed, October 21, 2009