Sunday, April 29, 2012

headed to Lebanon, feeling really brave....

So yours truly is headed to Lebanon, feeling really brave....

Tue, August 17, 2010 - 8:03 AM
Tell me what you think:


Hariri persists with calls for calm as tribunal tensions simmer
Politicians gear up for week of tense talks on draft oil law, defense
By Elias Sakr
Daily Star staff
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
BEIRUT: Ambiguity continues to surround the tug of war among Lebanese parties over investigations into former Prime Minister Rafik Hariri’s murder as Premier Saad Hariri remains silent over Hizbullah’s refusal to cooperate with the UN-backed tribunal.
Prime Minister Saad Hariri reiterated on Monday for the third consecutive day the need to commit to calm political rhetoric away from media provocations to allow room for dialogue in the interest of Lebanon’s stability.
As the political stalemate over Lebanon’s position vis-a-vis the UN probe persisted, politicians prepared to engage in heated discussions during the course of this week over the ratification of an oil law draft, the approval of a plan to equip the Lebanese Army and deliberation on a defense strategy.
Lawmakers are scheduled to debate Tuesday at Parliament the country’s draft oil law while the Cabinet is scheduled on Wednesday to discuss a three-year plan to equip the Lebanese Army prior to a meeting Thursday of the National Dialogue to discuss a defense strategy.
“We do not fear for Lebanon due to political noise and we hope that it calms down and turns into calm rhetoric to allow for democratic dialogue,” Hariri said during an iftar at his residence in Qoreitem on Monday.
“We call on all Lebanese during the holy month of Ramadan to preserve this spirit and give ourselves a new opportunity … to resolve our issues calmly away from tensions and escalation,” he added.
Hariri met Speaker Nabih Berri on Sunday. He called during an iftar later that night on domestic parties to commit to calm political rhetoric away from trading accusations over investigations into his father’s murder.
“A lot of you expect me to take a stance but I said yesterday that I will decide when to talk … no matter what the dispute among political parties is, we should not trade accusations of treason, lies and insults,” Hariri said.
On Saturday, Hariri stressed his commitment to preserving calm and stability in Lebanon as well as the truth behind the assassination of his father.
“Saad Hariri and all Lebanese want the truth and nothing more and they also want stability and [to know] who was responsible for the assassination of Hariri and the other martyrs,” the premier said.
Hariri warned that chaos and instability could not emanate from void but could only result from a decision to instigate them.
“We, as those who are responsible for this country, can face the worst attacks, whether they are Israeli or not, if we act wisely and calmly among each other,” Hariri said.
“I abstained from making statements during the past period and I will continue to do so because I want calm,” Hariri added.
Regional powerbrokers Syria and Saudi Arabia have both urged Lebanese parties, during a visit by the Syrian president and Saudi monarch to Lebanon last month, to commit to calm political rhetoric in a bid to ease growing tensions over the impending indictment by the Special Tribunal for Lebanon (STL).
Fears of Sunni-Shiite strife in Lebanon rose after Western and Israeli media reports claimed that the STL’s indictment would accuse Hizbullah members of involvement in the assassination.
Hizbullah leader Sayyed Hassan Nasrallah has criticized the STL as an “Israeli project” and stressed that his party had no trust in the UN-backed tribunal and would not cooperate with it directly.
During a news conference last Monday, Nasrallah presented information which he said implicated Israel in the murder, but the party has not yet handed the documents to the Lebanese judiciary after Prosecutor Said Mirza made a verbal request for the information in Hizbullah’s possession.
Mirza’s request followed a demand by STL Prosecutor Daniel Bellemare for information Nasrallah presented to the public.
While the parliamentary majority continues to stress the STL’s independence and exclusive right to investigate evidence and later issue an indictment, Hizbullah and its opposition allies have recently called for the formation of a Lebanese investigation committee.
Read more: http://www.dailystar.com.lb/article.asp?edition_id=1&categ_id=2&article_id=118268#ixzz0wsLlty9w
(The Daily Star :: Lebanon News :: http://www.dailystar.com.lb/)

Oh bloody hell! I am about to buy a ticket to Aqaba

Oh bloody hell! I am about to buy a ticket to Aqaba


The moment I tried to book an online ticket from Beirout to Aqaba on Royal Jordanian Airlines- news came in that a bomb dropped on the parking lot, 20m from the entrance to the Hyatt in Aqaba.

Tue, August 3, 2010 - 12:51 AM
Sitting at my computer trying to make up my mind about buying the ticket from Beirut to Aqaba/Jordan and just received from the smarttraveller service I subscribed to:

This advice has been reviewed and reissued. It contains new information under Terrorism (artillery rocket attack near international hotel in Aqaba on 2 August). The overall level of the advice has not changed.

Summary
•We advise you to exercise a high degree of caution in Jordan because of the high threat of terrorist attack.
•Pay close attention to your personal security at all times and monitor the media for information about possible new safety and security risks.
•We continue to receive reports that terrorists may be planning attacks in Jordan against Westerners and places frequented by Westerners or associated with Western interests.
•Terrorists have attacked international hotels in Jordan. Tourist hotels throughout Jordan, in particular in Amman, Aqaba, the Dead Sea and other resort areas, are potential targets for attack. For further information on possible targets, see Safety and Security: Terrorism.
•Political developments in the region may prompt demonstrations in Jordan. These demonstrations could turn violent and should be avoided.
•Pandemic (H1N1) 2009 has spread throughout the world. The World Health Organization (WHO) provides useful information for individuals and travellers on its website. For further information and advice to Australians, including on possible quarantine measures overseas, see our travel bulletin on Pandemic (H1N1) 2009.
•Be a smart traveller. Before heading overseas:
◦organise comprehensive travel insurance and check what circumstances and activities are not covered by your policy
◦register your travel and contact details, so we can contact you in an emergency
◦subscribe to this travel advice to receive free email updates each time it’s reissued.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On this page:
Summary
Safety and Security
Local Laws
Entry and Exit Requirements
Health Issues
Where to Get Help
Safety and Security
Terrorism
Terrorism is a threat throughout the world. You can find more information about this threat in our General Advice to Australian Travellers.

We advise you to exercise a high degree of caution in Jordan because of the high threat of terrorist attack. Pay close attention to your personal security at all times and monitor the media for information about possible new safety and security risks.

We continue to receive reports that terrorists may be planning attacks in Jordan against Westerners and places frequented by Westerners or associated with Western interests. International hotels have been attacked by terrorists in the past and further attacks cannot be ruled out. On 22 April 2010 an artillery rocket fired towards the Israeli city of Eilat, landed in the adjoining Jordanian city of Aqaba, causing minor damage. On 2 August 2010, a similar rocket exploded outside an international hotel in Aqaba, killing one and injuring four. On 14 January 2010 an Israeli convoy was the target of a roadside bombing on the Amman to Dead Sea road. These incidents highlight the risk to Australians in Jordan from attacks directed at others.

A public statement in March 2008, purportedly by a senior al-Qa'ida figure, called for attacks against Jordan. Possible targets include tourist hotels in Amman, Aqaba, the Dead Sea, Petra, Jerash and other cities and resort areas. Attacks could also be directed at embassies and consulates of countries that are part of the coalition in Iraq, including by implication the Australian Embassy, US and UK military bases and Jordanian government sites. Al-Qa'ida bombed three international hotels in Amman in 2005 and has also assassinated targeted foreigners in Jordan and could do so again.

In planning your activities, consider the types of places known to be terrorist targets and the level of security provided at these places. Tourist areas and attractions throughout Jordan and tourists travelling to or from these places, including those in tour groups or tour buses, could be targeted. Other possible terrorist targets in Jordan include hotels, restaurants, bars, nightspots, clubs, sporting clubs and sporting venues, international fast food outlets, supermarkets, markets, bars, cinemas, theatres, office buildings, public transport, pedestrian promenades, universities, places of worship, expatriate residential areas and schools, outdoor recreation events or identifiably Western or Jewish businesses and interests.

The central business and embassy districts of Amman, including embassies, other metropolitan and tourist centres and premises, symbols and buildings associated with the Jordanian Government, key transport infrastructure including airports, petrol stations, shopping centres and shopping malls are also possible targets.

You should be vigilant in the lead up to and on days of national or religious significance as terrorists may choose to use these occasions to mount attacks.

Civil Unrest/Political Tension
International events or political developments in the region may prompt demonstrations in Jordan. These demonstrations could turn violent and should be avoided.

You should avoid all large gatherings, including those at university campuses, near mosques and Palestinian refugee camps as they may become violent. The risk of violent disturbances is higher on Fridays, near main city mosques and downtown areas of Amman (East Amman) after midday prayers.

Crime
Petty crime is a concern, especially in downtown and wealthier parts of Amman. Unattended bags have been stolen in hotels. Bags have also been snatched from pedestrians by thieves in passing vehicles. Victims have been knocked to the ground and sometimes dragged. Bags should be carried on the side away from the kerb. Burglaries also occur.

You should be vigilant when using ATMs.

Women are vulnerable to harassment, which can include leering, unwanted physical contact and stalking. There have been several incidents of sexual assault against foreign women. You should avoid walking alone after dark and in isolated places. See also Local Travel below.

In September 2006, a lone gunman shot at a group of foreign tourists and their tour guide close to the Roman ruins in downtown Amman, killing one person and injuring six, including a Jordanian police officer. In February 2008, a Western tourist was stabbed in the same area, while a gunman wounded six people as they boarded a bus near the ruins in July 2008.

Local Travel
Unexploded munitions, including landmines, are still a danger along Jordan’s northern border, particularly around military installations. Known minefields are usually fenced and marked, but these warnings may not be obvious.

The border crossing point between Jordan and the West Bank could be closed at very short notice. For details about travel to the West Bank, see our travel advice for Israel, Gaza Strip and West Bank.

Police perform random security checks of vehicles on Jordanian highways and you are advised to carry identification documents to present at checkpoints.

Women should avoid travelling alone, particularly at night. Serious assaults by taxi drivers on lone female passengers have been reported. Where possible, women should avoid sitting in the front seat of a taxi and use a recommended taxi company and driver. You should pay attention to your immediate surroundings and exercise judgement.

Jordan has a high accident road toll. Roads can be hazardous at night, particularly in rural areas where stray livestock and unlit vehicles are common, and you should avoid driving outside the cities after dark. For further advice, see our bulletin on Overseas Road Safety. Vehicles must carry an extinguisher and a warning triangle.

The safety standards you might expect of transport and tour operators, including adventure activities, might not always be met. Sufficient safety equipment may not be provided and recommended maintenance standards and safety precautions may not be observed.

We strongly recommend Australians do not travel to Iraq due to the extremely dangerous security situation and very high threat of terrorist attack. If you plan to go to Iraq, you should first read our travel advisory for Iraq.

Airline Safety
Please refer to our travel bulletin for information about Aviation Safety and Security.

Natural Disasters, Severe Weather and Climate
Jordan is located in an active earthquake zone.

Sand and dust storms can occur, particularly in desert areas.

Flooding, including flash floods, can occur in valleys (wadis) from November to March.

Rock falls and landslips can also occur in valleys and other natural rock fissures and formations. You should take particular care in these areas.

Information on natural disasters can be obtained from the Humanitarian Early Warning Service. If a natural disaster occurs, follow the advice of local authorities.

Wildlife
Australians are advised to respect wildlife laws and to maintain a safe and legal distance when observing wildlife, including marine animals and birds. You should only use reputable and professional guides or tour operators and closely follow park regulations and wardens' advice.

Money and Valuables
Before you go, organise a variety of ways to access your money overseas, such as credit cards, travellers' cheques, cash, debit cards or cash cards. Australian currency and travellers' cheques are not accepted in many countries. Consult with your bank to find out which is the most appropriate currency to carry and whether your ATM card will work overseas.

Make two photocopies of valuables such as your passport, tickets, visas and travellers' cheques. Keep one copy with you in a separate place to the original and leave another copy with someone at home.

While travelling, don't carry too much cash and remember that expensive watches, jewellery and cameras may be tempting targets for thieves.

As a sensible precaution against luggage tampering, including theft, lock your luggage. Information on luggage safety is available from the Civil Aviation Safety Authority.

Your passport is a valuable document that is attractive to criminals who may try to use your identity to commit crimes. It should always be kept in a safe place. You are required by Australian law to report a lost or stolen passport. If your passport is lost or stolen overseas, report it online or contact the nearest Australian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate as soon as possible.

Australians are required to pay an additional fee to have their passport replaced. In some cases, the Government may also restrict the length of validity or type of replacement passports.

For Parents
For general information and tips on travelling with children see our Travelling Parents brochure.

If you are planning on placing your children in schools or childcare facilities overseas we encourage you to research the standards of security, care and staff training within those establishments. You should exercise the same precautions you would take before placing children into schools or childcare facilities in Australia.

Ideas on how to select childcare providers are available from the smartraveller Children’s Issues page, Child Wise and the National Childcare Accreditation Council.

Local Laws
When you are in Jordan, be aware that local laws and penalties, including ones that appear harsh by Australian standards, do apply to you. If you are arrested or jailed, the Australian Government will do what it can to help you but we can’t get you out of trouble or out of jail.

Information on what Australian consular officers can and cannot do to help Australians in trouble overseas is available from the Consular Services Charter.

Australians who might engage in activities that involve local legal matters, particularly with regard to family law (divorce, child custody and child support), are strongly advised to seek professional advice and ensure they are aware of their rights and responsibilities. See also Entry and Exit Requirements below.

Penalties for drug offences are severe and include life imprisonment. Penalties for possession of even small quantities of 'soft' drugs include mandatory prison sentences.

Serious crimes, such as murder, treason and rape, may attract the death penalty.

Hard labour may be imposed for offences causing personal injury or property damage.

Adultery (including consensual sex between unmarried couples) may be punished by up to 3 years imprisonment.

Australians wishing to marry in Jordan should confirm legal requirements prior to travel, either from the Australian Embassy in Amman or the Jordanian Embassy in Canberra.

Under Jordanian law, drivers are considered guilty if they are involved in an accident in which a pedestrian is injured. They face possible prison terms and payment of financial compensation.

It is illegal to photograph embassies, military and security installations and sites. You should obey all signs prohibiting photography of official buildings. You should seek consent before photographing people.

You should check local regulations and sensitivities before engaging in missionary work, preaching or other religious activities.

Some Australian criminal laws, such as those relating to money laundering, bribery of foreign public officials, terrorism and child sex tourism, apply to Australians overseas. Australians who commit these offences while overseas may be prosecuted in Australia.

Australian authorities are committed to combating sexual exploitation of children by Australians overseas. Australians may be prosecuted at home under Australian child sex tourism laws. These laws provide severe penalties of up to 17 years imprisonment for Australians who engage in sexual activity with children under 16 while outside of Australia.

Local Customs
There are strict standards of modest dress and behaviour in Jordan. You should take care not to offend.

You should avoid eating, drinking and smoking in public between sunrise and sunset during Ramadan. See our Ramadan 2010 Travel Bulletin for further information.

Public displays of affection between couples are not socially acceptable and may cause offence in many parts of Jordan.

It is not socially acceptable for unmarried couples to live together or share accommodation.

Homosexual relations are not socially acceptable in Jordan.

Cultural and social expectations vary between regions of Jordan. If in doubt, seek local advice.

Information for Dual Nationals
Dual nationals are considered Jordanian while in Jordan.

Compulsory military service has been suspended. However, all Jordanian males between 18 and 40 years, including dual nationals, are required to register for Jordanian military service and postpone their service each year. Eligible males who fail to register may be prevented from leaving Jordan.

Our Travel Information for Dual Nationals brochure provides further information for dual nationals.

Entry and Exit Requirements
Visa and other entry and exit conditions (such as currency, customs and quarantine regulations) change regularly. Contact the nearest Embassy or Consulate of Jordan for the most up-to-date information.

Foreigners wishing to stay more than one month in Jordan must register with the police and may be required to undergo medical and HIV tests.

A valid yellow fever vaccination certificate is required for entry into Jordan if you have come from or transited an area where there is a risk of transmission.

Under Jordanian law, a husband may prevent his wife and children from leaving Jordan, even if they are Australian citizens.

If you travel between Jordan and Israel, you may experience difficulties in or be refused entry to some Arab and Muslim nations if your passport has evidence of travel to Israel, including entry and exit stamps issued at border crossings in Jordan, or if your luggage has stickers indicating you have been to Israel.

Make sure your passport has at least six months' validity from your planned date of return to Australia. You should carry copies of a recent passport photo with you in case you need a replacement passport while overseas.

Health Issues
Pandemic (H1N1) 2009 has spread throughout the world. The World Health Organization (WHO) provides useful information for individuals and travellers on its website. For further information and advice to Australians, including on possible quarantine measures overseas, see our travel bulletin on Pandemic (H1N1) 2009.

We strongly recommend that you take out comprehensive travel insurance that will cover any overseas medical costs, including medical evacuation, before you depart. Confirm that your insurance covers you for the whole time you’ll be away and check what circumstances and activities are not included in your policy. Remember, regardless of how healthy and fit you are, if you can't afford travel insurance, you can't afford to travel. The Australian Government will not pay for a traveller's medical expenses overseas or medical evacuation costs.

Your doctor or travel clinic is the best source of information about preventive measures, immunisations (including booster doses of childhood vaccinations) and disease outbreaks overseas. The World Health Organization (WHO) provides information for travellers and our Travelling Well brochure also provides useful tips for travelling with medicines and staying healthy while overseas.

Outside major cities, Jordan's health services are basic. Most high quality medical services in Amman are private and cash payment is expected in advance. In the event of serious illness, accident or for complex medical procedures, medical evacuation to a destination with appropriate medical facilities could be necessary. Medical evacuation costs would be considerable.

Water-borne, food-borne, mosquito-borne and other infectious diseases (including hepatitis, typhoid, measles, brucellosis, sand fly fever, rabies and schistosomiasis) are prevalent with more serious outbreaks occurring from time to time. We encourage you to consider having vaccinations before travelling, including booster doses of childhood vaccinations, and take precautions against being bitten by insects, including using insect repellent at all times. You should boil all drinking water or drink bottled water and avoid ice cubes and raw and undercooked food. Seek medical advice if you have a fever or are suffering from diarrhoea.

The World Organisation for Animal Health (OIE) has confirmed cases of avian influenza in birds in a number of countries throughout the world, including Jordan. For a list of these countries, visit the OIE website. For information on our advice to Australians on how to reduce the risk of infection and on Australian Government precautions see our travel bulletin on avian influenza.

Where to Get Help
In Jordan, you can obtain consular assistance from the:

Australian Embassy
41 Kayed Al Armouti Street
Abdoun Al Jonoubi
Amman, JORDAN
Telephone: (962 6) 580 7000
Facsimile: (962 6) 580 7001
Email: amman.consular@dfat.gov.au
Website: www.jordan.embassy.gov.au

The working week is Sunday to Thursday, in accordance with local practice.

If you are travelling to Jordan, whatever the reason and however long you’ll be there, we encourage you to register with the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade. You can register online or in person at any Australian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate. The information you provide will help us to contact you in an emergency – whether it is a natural disaster, civil disturbance or a family issue.

In a consular emergency if you are unable to contact the embassy, you can contact the 24-hour Consular Emergency Centre on +61 2 6261 3305 or 1300 555 135 within Australia.

In Australia, the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade in Canberra may be contacted on (02) 6261 3305.

This Advice was issued on Tuesday, 03 August 2010, 16:05:44, EST.

Crossing Cultures- My first coffee with women from Saudi Arabia

Today I arrived early for my class at the Arabic Islamic institute. When we have spare time, we have a special place to hang out: the "women's floor". So, in through the sheltered women's door down the little garden path and up to the women's floor where we can all sit around a low table, some of us on the chairs and some on the thick, lush Persian carpet.
Today the place was already taken- to my surprise there was a whole group of women and children, and all of them Arab. After a while I ventured back down from the school and found that two of my classmates had joined their party. So I sat down on the carpet, curled under my legs, drew my Indian silk scarf closer around my shoulders and arms and was offered some cake on of them had brought. Here they all were, some with their hair completely covered in hijab, some more loosely, all in long sleeves and even one without hijab and in tight Western clothes. And some of them were stunningly beautiful.
"The cake is nice", I said to the one who had brought it and she gave me a brilliant, delighted smile. "My Aunty Norah made it", she said, and pointed at an older woman in black hijab. "My Aunty Norah is my mother's friend, and I have to show respect to all my mother's friends." "And so you call them all Aunty?" I asked. "Yes." "This is like in Turkey where I never know who is really brothers with who", I said and laughed.
I noticed one woman moving among them. Slender, with graceful movements, a delicate body completely covered by a black abaya. But one of the most exquisite abayas I have ever seen. Made of thin black and slightly stiff silk, with the most intricate subtle embroidery, black on black, a veil slung softly over her head and framing her face with beautiful wavy lines down both sides, her curly hair cascading down underneath it. Her face was dramatically beautiful, with large, expressive dark exotic eyes, her brows black perfect arches on her immaculate skin, her lips forming another dramatic red contrast to her light skin and her black hair, her nose a beautifully chiseled curve never seen in a European woman. All I could think was:"You can make her wear all black, you can hide her body under a long loose dress that shows nothing but her hands, so one can barely sense it's lines, you can make her wear a veil, and still her beauty shines radiantly through it all, maybe even more so, because some of it is hidden...."
They gave me a cup of their fragrant Saudi coffee. A hitherto unexperienced taste- coffee without milk but delicately flavoured with cardamom and other spices, a taste I love.
Then the woman in black silk said she had to leave. And started to get dressed for going outside. I watched her in growing amazement. I have seen the final results but I have never before seen one of them while putting this on.
She now put on a cloak, drew a second scarf over her hair, drew it tight around the forehead so the hair disappeared. Then, with quick skilled movements, draped, wrapped and tucked the cloth around her face, her neck, her shoulders until it formed a beautifully folded shape which hid all the skin below her face from view. Then came another black loose hood which she pulled over the other scarf and down her forehead, almost below her eyebrows. And then one more cloth- over her head it went and down her face.The upper edge went under the hood and rested on her nose and now she had completely disappeared- her body, her shoulders, her throat, her hair, her forehead and her face, all invisible under the scarves. And then she left- turned around once more, greeted us, waved and took the elevator. After she was gone, I asked the other women:"But can you see, like this?" "Oh, yes, we can, perfectly" one said, "we don't even feel it!"

Reply from Damascus

Ticket to get away from it all

Fri, May 28, 2010 - 10:08 AM
Eat your heart out, I have a reservation! Ahmed has replied to my email with a message from Damascus!

"The 400-year old house was renovated by the Ota Bashi Center of Arab Heritage, which has nearly 200 years experience in ancient Arab decoration world-wide...The two-storey historical house has rooms restored in Ottoman decorative styles, where the guests can feel at home.Sit back in one of the house's two open courtyards and enjoy a cup of mint tea or cardamom coffee. Or simply admire the terrace view of the Qasiun mountain and imagine the years gone by."

Travel headaches again- help!

Travel headaches again- help!

So I got a flight to Damascus. However, Turkish Airlines is booked up and they put me on Qatar Air for now and I am stuck with the headache of finding a cheap way to get from Damascus to Frankfurt and back. Ok, so German holiday charter flights do not fly into Syria. Nor Jordan, nor Lebanon. I could get as far as to/fromAntalya in Turkey, and then spend 700-800km on several buses, trying to cross the Syrian border near Aleppo, round trip. Or I could fly to Tel Aviv. Then I would have to hide the fact I have been to Israel because otherwise I will not be allowed into Syria again. Charter flights from Germany do fly into Tel Aviv, strangely. Rather close to Syria but sounds like a huge, unnecessary hastle. Also not quite safe... Then there is a cheap flight from/to Cyprus. In Cyprus, again, to travel from Northern Cyprus to Southern Cyprus, you have to hide the fact that you have been to Turkey coz they do not like that either. And Cyprus operates no ferry service to either Lebanon nor Syria,. apparenlty, so I would be stuck on this close by island like in a dead end road, unless I fly into Lebanon from there. I also found a 900$ flight to Syria...Or I could dish out over 500$ and fly from Damascus direct to Frankfurt, but that would be double of what I would pay otherwise on German charter flights. ARGHHHH! And I have a new travel agency employee who booked me a flight from Doha to Damascus, correct flight number, but wrote on the itinerary that the flight's destination is Madrid, so I have to go to their office and raise hell about how sloppy they are. Oof.
Mon, May 24, 2010 - 11:32 PM

One Arabic approach to flirtation- Jane Digby buys a horse


 

One Arabic approach to flirtation- Jane Digby buys a horse

from "The biography of Jane Digby, a Scandalous life"

"In the desert encampment Jane had seen a thoroughbred Arabian horse which exactly matched her requirements, the duchess said. It belonged to a handsome young sheikh who, when Janese offered to buy the magnificent creature, told her it was unrideable. 'If the horse were able to be broken to ride', the sheikh told Jane, 'it would be beyond price'. But even as she stood, the sheikh said, he valued the animal above his three beautiful wives. Jane replied that, though a fine horse was to be treasured, three beauiful wives should not be disdained. She suggested that he sent the horse to her to see if she could ride it. Agreeing that 'sometimes a woman succeeds where a man fails because she knows when to yield', the sheikh had two of his Arabs lead the horse to Jane.
She had been breaking and riding thoroughbred horses all her life, and, knowing her skill as an equestrienne, the duchess and Edmond About found no difficulty ihn believing that within a short period their friend had managed to persuade the horse to take the saddle and was able to ride her.
When he saw her galloping the 'unbreakable' horse, the sheikh found Jane more exciting than his three wives put together. He said to her, 'This animal is now priceless since you were able to dominate her, but if you still want her it is not with your money that you will have to pay for her.'
Jane, who had been admiring the sheikh, replied:'I will pay what you wish for the horse, I have not come such a distance to haggle. But the women of my country are too proud to share a man's heart; they only enter a tent on condition that they reign alone, and I will pay you for your horse only on condition that you dismiss your harem.'
The sheikh said heatedly, 'Men of my country take as many wives as they can afford to keep; if I dismiss my harem to live with one woman alone I will appear like a 1200 franc clerk. Besides, I must follow my religion, set an exemple to my people and respect the old ways.'
...They discussed the matter for a long time before they reached an agreement, and at the present time Jane is the sole wife of the sheikh. She has a three year contract and when this expires the sheikh, if he so wishes, may take back his harem. The contract is renewable, but will it be renewed? I doubt it. Woman is a fruit that ripens quickly under the Syrian sun.
The Duchesse soon got over Jane's departure, having taken the precaution of quarreling with her prior to her departure so as not to miss her."

Wed, January 20, 2010 - 10:48 PM

Lady Jane Digby rides through the desert to Bagdad, 1854


Lady Jane Digby rides through the desert to Bagdad, 1854 


Barak rushed into her tent demanding that she hide her sheikh's scarlet mantle but it was already too late. Jahe heard the cries of the attackers and reached for a gun but, as she turned, an Arab on a chestnut horse, the sharpened point of his lance held before him, rode into the open tent and 'made us fairly his prisoners'. A large group of 'ruffians' herded them off to the conquerer's tents.
Not surprisingly, Eugenie was extremely frightened, insisting hysterically, 'Oh, we shall be sold as slaves.' Not so Jane. The raiders, she learned, were members of the M'wayaja tribe. She scribbled hurried notes into her brown notebook, dismissing her captors as canaille. 'Not one prepossesing face amongst them!' she wrote. 'How different from the handsome Jordan set.' She was unafraid and, though she felt sorry for Eugenie's distress, had to admit that 'In my heart I have enjoyed the experience so far, and was glad of witnessing it.'
The following day, after much consultation,Barak paid the ransom demanded for the release of persons, camels and tents, but they had to stand by while many of their personal belongings were openly taken off them. When this was done Jane assumed that they would be released, but they were still guarded by a fierce Arab woman wielding a large club and ruffian looking guards who insisted they were not to move until their sheikh, Faris ebn Hedeb, returned. It seemed that Sheikh Faris had had second thoughts and now wished to press for more ransom money. As night fell, the men gathered around the coffee hearth to negotiate terms. Fascinated, Jane placed her bed-roll outside the tent so that she could watch and listen.

True kindness

Today I received a parcel in the mail. It is the lavender coloured Indian silk blouse, the one that I am wearing on my avatar, during the camel tour in the Thar desert of Rajasthan.
After I returned to Tokyo, I wrote a thank you-mail to Lois Mason, the owner of the Desert Moon Guesthouse in Jaisalmer. (www.desertmoonguesthouse.com) and mentioned that my silk blouse did not seem to be in my suitcase and could it be that her dhobi-man (the laundry person) forgot to return it from the wash? She went looking for it and wrote back, no, it was not there. But where did I stay next after Jaisalmer? Could I send her the name of the hotel, she would call them and find out if I forgot it in the next place, maybe. So I sent her the phone number of the beautiful Ratan Vilas hotel in Jodhpur which also has a very kind manager, and she called them twice, reminding them to search for it and then she sent me another mail, saying that she had good news finally, that indeed, they found it! And that she had told them to send it to her so that she could ship it to Japan for me.... Ratan Vilas promised that the next time someone of their staff made a trip to Jaisalmer (5 hours drive away from there on mostly desert roads) they would give him the blouse and have it delivered to Desert Moon into Lois' hands. After 2-3 weeks someone finally did travel over there through the desert and Lois sent me another mail that she had it and would post it. Meanwhile, I told a friend who went to India yesterday all about Desert Moon and it's wonderful, kind and thoughtful owner and started arranging for Rajasthani/kalbeliya dance lessons for her which Lois offered to have held on her roof, with a dancer provided by Jaisalmer's culture center.
And then another mail came, with Lois saying that she had finally made it to the post office and sent the blouse by speed post and now it is here! Back with me, after an odyssee through the Thar desert, city to city, retrieved from oblivion. I am touched when I look at it.
My kathak teacher was enchanted when I told her this story and asked me for the address of Desert Moon, and said, this is a happening that is unheard of in India!
Thank you so much, Lois, I owe you one! I hope, everyone who thinks about going to Jaisalmer will find this on the net.
Wed, October 28, 2009 - 7:08 AM

Arm Chair Travel


arm chair travel

So I am finally experiencing the real thrill of arm chair traveling. Reading "Bad Lands" by Tony Wheeler of Lonely planet, my breath stopped for a moment when he described, in the chapter on Iraq, how he decided to enter it. Take a plane to Istanbul, hang out at Kadikoy harbour, then take a plane from Sabina Gokcen airport (was there myself this September) to Diyarbakir (this is when I stopped breathing) and as soon as he left the airport, he was surrounded by taxi drivers who kept asking him:"Want to go to Iraq? Want to go to Iraq?"
Wow!
So, experiencing the delicious chill of sitting safely in my chair, I followed him in the description of his adventures starting from there. He had decided, in 2006 (4 months or so before I landed in Turkey for the first time) that the "safe" part of Iraq for traveling was- Kurdistan! And took the taxi from Diyarbakir to Kirkuk...and I share his feeling of doing crazy things like visiting museums and buying kebab while sort of wondering what on earth one is doing here, other than satisfying some mad urge to enter the unknown, just breaking out of the normal, usual everyday world into the thrillof something brandnew and therefore, much more interesting...Something one must see sooner or later while there is still time.
The other book I am reading is "Lonely planet guide to Lebanon and Syria". So far, I understand that Lebanon sounds a lot more pleasant and easier on lone women than Syria. No hijab, no jellabas, no off-limit all men coffeeshops...women in Beirut wearing skimpy sun dresses and lots of make up, tehre are plenty of night clubs in Beirut to go dancing etc., it seems...on the other hand, Lebanon is just as expensive as North America, it says, and this is a real bummer. So, Lebanon sounds like fun, adn you just have to keep checking on the political situation because tehre is always a chance that you will be surprised by dropping bombs...But transport sounds really iffy, outside the major cities...Uhuh...And then there are all these chapters on trekking and hiking and mountain climbing and advice which mountain boots to pack...
Syria, on the other hand, seems very safe crime-wise. It says, people do not steal there. Wow! Now that is a new one in the Middle East. the only Mediterranean country I know where people don't steal is Greece, I never knew about Syria. It also says, Syria has good transport, people are really nice and friendly (apart from the heavy restrictions for women bit), and it is rather cheap, apparently. And Damascus seems to be the oldest city on earth... I have a feeling, I will got there sooner or later. Last but not least I am running the tribe for a Damascene poet who also lived in Beirut, Nizar Qabbani.
I have already finished "In Arabian nights" and Lonely Planet Morocco is sitting in my shelf too...
But as far as Babylon, Kirkuk and Tabriz are concerned, I think I will stick to arm chair traveling for now. And this is real hair raising fun, I have just discovered!
Wed, October 21, 2009

Learning to ride the carpet...


Learning to ride the carpet...

Tonight I was reading "In Arabian Nights" at Segafredo cafe when I saw Momo walk in. Momo, that is, as I assume, Si Mohammed, the "most beautiful of all footballers" as I call him in my mind, a Moroccan soccer pro from Paris who lives near my station. The first time I spotted him, years ago, my jaw dropped, he was sooo breathtakingly handsome. Ever since he has been known among my girlriends from my tales as "the most beautiful of all footballers". Meanwhile, he has aged a small number of years, is no longer playing professionally but rather teaching and managing soccer, and we have become friends. I know most of his Moroccan friends from other places, we sometimes talk over coffee and he likes the books I read. Since I was there with "L'elegance du herisson" he always asks what book I am reading. Sometimes it is an Arabic one. Once he even asked if I could think up a movie script for him, to do with Dodi and the Princess.
So, today he walked in, without any of his friends, smiled at me and sat down at a table at a little distance. When I left, I walked over and said:"Look what I am reading now!" and handed him a book that had an image of a blue Moroccan house on it's cover. He turned it over, opened it, leafed through it and said:"But this is not...? Who wrote this?" "Yes, it is not Arabian nights, it is called 'IN Arabian nights' and the author is Persian. He writes about his life in Casablanca where he moved with his Indian wife. It is very interesting. For exemple, he writes about how his servants are always complaining that there are Jinns in his house..." "What??", said Momo. "Jinns-, you know, ghosts.." I went on, and told him the story. "Where do you find these books?", he said. "Oh...this one I found at..." ,and I named a large bookstore 45 minutes away from where we were. "Hm..." he said. "I will give it to you when I have finished it!" I offered generously. This was not what I had been meaning to do with the book but who would be better off with my book as a gift than the beautiful Momo who is Moroccan himself even if he does not live there?
Then I started telling him about Rajasthan. "I have been to Rajasthan this summer", I said, "I have learned how to veil myself and how to wrap a turban and ride a camel through the desert..." "Where is that?" he said. "North of India. I went to Delhi and took a plane to Jodhpur and from there a bus 5 hours into the desert, near the Pakistani border, and 5 hours back and then I traveled around the whole country on 5 hour bus rides, by myself." "I am not gonna go. Weren't you scared?" "Yes, I was, but there was this dancer I wanted to see, he lives in Jaisalmer..." "A dancer? He is a man?" he asked. "Yes, a gypsy" I explained and smiled. "Yes, of course I was scared but I wanted to go, so what I did was I told all my friends that I am going to go to Rajasthan and aren't I great and so on, so I would not be able to chicken out without embarrassing myself. I tricked myself!" He seemed to understand that. "But it was good for me, now I feel stronger, so next time I wanna go to a more dangerous country, I want to go to Morocco. Maybe I'll take the bus from Tangier to Marrakech...!" I said dramatically, pronouncing the Moroccan city names with a French accent. Momo softly shook his head. "Morocco is nothing", he said. "It is not dangerous. As long as you don't go to any strange places like the Souk and such. If you go there, they will steal from you and that's it."
"You know what I'll do? When I was in Rajasthan, I sometimes put a scarf over my head and.." I made a movement like I was veiling my face, "And then everybody backed off. It was so easy! Just this" I made another movement of drawing a veil over my face "...and -peace! I am gonna do the same in Morocco. " He gave me a long look into my eyes. "They were Muslims." he said slowly and firmly. "Yes, they were Muslims." Then I went on to tell him that Rajasthan means "the country of kings", that the Rajputs lived there, I drew long curved lines into the air, dramatically outlining the scimitars and swords they were carrying, and that Rajasthan is full of palaces, the Palace of the Winds in Jaipur, and Mehrangarh Fort Castle where you can walk through and every hall you enter holds another miracle and when you walk over the theshold they play a song for you, there is the man with his flute sitting on the door step...
"Do you come here often?" Momo said, as though he did not know that. "Next time when you come, we will sit over there again, together, and you will tell me more..."
I want to become a storyteller. All these Arabian and Persian stories are inspiring me and looking into Momo's dark eyes and the chiseled nose and his flawlessly clear Kabyle-white skin inspire me to talk in more colourful and dramatic ways...I want to draw more pictures in the air and build castles in the wind, creating treasures out of fantasies and memories, taking listeners' minds on a journey... All a storyteller needs is memories and a good muse. ; )
Wed, October 14, 2009 - 9:37 AM

The right of the Nomad

  

The right of the Nomad

Mon, October 12, 2009 - 8:55 AM
One right to which few individuals care to lay claim is the right to wander, the right to vagrancy. and yet vagrancy is emancipation, and life on the roads is liberty: one day bravely to throw off the shackles with which modern life and the weakness of our heart encumber us, in a pretence of liberty; to arm oneself with the symbolic staff and bundle and run away!
For whoever values the delights of solitary freedom (and true freedom depends on solitude), the act of running away is most courageous and most beautiful.
Selfish happiness perhaps. But happiness indeed for those able to appreciate it.
To be alone, to be poor in needs, to be unknown, a stranger and at home everywhere, and to march tall and solitary towards one's conquest of the world.
(...)
Never to have felt the torturing need to know and to see what's out there, beyond the mysterious blue wall of the horizon; never to have felt the depressing suffocation in the same old setting; to see the road leading away in all it's whiteness towards unknown distances without hearing the command to give oneself to it, to follow it obediently, across mountains and valleys- all this fearful need for immobility resembles the unconscious resignation of the beast stupefied by servitude, offering its neck to the yoke.
To all ownership, there are limits. Every force is governed by laws. But the vagabond possesses the entire vast earth, bounded only by the imaginary horizon. And his empire is intangible, a realm of spirit where he has his enjoyment and dominion.

from: Isabelle Eberhardt, Prisoner of Dunes

A book I read...."Bad Lands" by Tony Wheeler of Lonely Planet


A book I need to read..."Bad Lands" by Tony Wheeler of Lonely planet..

'You guys really are the axis of evil', our guide splutters over his stein of beer in the Pyongyang duck restaurant. 'You're always leaning out of the windows and taking photographs when I tell you not to.'

In an age of plastic knives on planes, Tony Wheeler can make the extraordinary claim of having visited all the rogue countries currently on newsreaders' lips. Bad Lands is a witty first-hand account of his travels through places often perceived as having some of the most repressive and dangerous regimes in the world: Afghanistan, Albania, Burma, Cuba, Iran, Iraq, Libya, North Korea and Saudi Arabia. Taking into account each country's attitude to human rights, terrorism and foreign policy, he asks 'what makes a country truly evil?' and 'how bad is really bad?' - all the while engaging with a colourful cast of locals and hapless tour guides, ruminating on history and debunking popular myths.

Written by the founder of Lonely Planet, this fascinating account of life in these closed-off countries will appeal to anyone with an interest in the state of the world today.

Who's Bad? Download the free 'Axis-of-Evil'-meter screensaver HERE.

Other Travel Literature ›
Other Guides for Middle East ›
Wait, There's More! Related Titles"

I have ordered it, along with "The Lonely Planet Guide to Syria and Lebanon"
While in Rajasthan, on a bus full of Khalbeliya gypsies and dark skinned Muslim men with little golden rosette shaped ear rings as the only foreigner, hiding half my face behind my silk scarf against the desert wind blowing into my bus window and to make myself feel a little safer and stand out less among the women, I often asked myself:"What am I doing here? In this strange place, among these strange people, where nobody knows me and I barely know where I am going?" Whatever took me there, on that journey, I find I have come out feeling stronger, clearer and more at peace with myself. A small less dramatic version of bathing in dragon blood? ; ) So, I am ready for more, and am raising the bar next time. Just enquired with Mishaal whether it is possible visa-wise to cross the border from Turkey into Syria and from there into Lebanon..Or the other way round? She says, yes, it is...
Sun, October 11, 2009 - 1:54 AM

Ready to share my Rajasthan trip with you!

I have uploaded all roughly 500 photos of my journey to the internet. Sorted in albums of Prague, Turkey, cities in Western, central, Eastern and Southern Rajasthan, you can view them now! Find all the magnificent views of the Thar desert, the Amber Fort, the Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, the palace of the winds, the Rajasthani folk dancers and musicians here:
picasaweb.google.com/nashiz.nisa

Tue, October 6, 2009

Going to India? checklist of what you need


Going to India? checklist of what you need

I will make up a list for you of the things you need to prepare for going to India, if my blog inspired you to do the same:

flight ticket to India (Air India is not great but flies you to Indian cities like Delhi, Mumbai etc. directly from major cities.
air tickets inside India by Kingfisher Air, Jet Airways or Spice Jet mainly, also Air Inda, but the others may fly more frequently and may be better AND cheaper. Kingfisher also flies to Singapore now. Kingfisher has porters in red and cream uniforms that receive you and your luggage OUTSIDE the airport, from the moment you arrive in your taxi at the terminal, and they carry your stuff to the check in counter for you!
Bus tickets you can buy at short notice for goverment and private buses at short notice, and they cost about 150 rupees for a 5 hour trip that takes you from one Rajasthani city to another. Train I never used, you should get your reservation at least a day in advance, I guess, and you also need a bicycle chain to secure your suitcase to the luggage rack, so noone runs off with it! The buses put your suitcase into the trunk, and it seems to be safe there. Sometimes you can even take it inside with you.

vaccinations:
hepatitis A and B (they last for 3-o tyears depending, so you don't need one every time)
boosters for tetanus, diphteria and polio (can be combined in one shot, easy)
typhoid vaccine (lasts 2-3 years, may have rather unpleasant side effects which made me not repeat mine which was 2.5 years old. The shot is less heavy than the oral one, but both are sometimes hard to stomach, it seems. I did not catch anything, but it makes you feel safer)
malaria pills, if you go during monsoon time esp. or into a malaria region (I did not not, and happily watched my suffering fellow tourists when they groaned:"It is malarone time... time to take our pills, argh! We get stomach upsets all the time." I read the side effects of the various possible drugs which ranged from depression to sun sensitivity to stomach irritation, and did not want any of that and decided to take the risk. You can always rush to a hospital in India and get treatment once you catch it, they all know how to test and deal with it.

mosquito repellent (I used it only once or twice, did not need it, and they said, it was harmless normal mosquitoes)
Heavy duty good sun lotion with super high spf
I used Lancome SPF 50 for the body
and L'Oreal SPF 50 for the face (use a special facial one if you don't want to look all shiny and greasy. Still use your powder compact after applying it)
In addition to that, esp. if you are going to Western Rajasthan, bring a long silk scarf. Long means saree size, like almost two yards long, which you can drape over your hair, pull forward to shade parts of your face, and in case of desert wind blowing sand around or very strong sun, you can wrap it around your face to protect your skin. Don't worry, everybody does it, all the women have scarves over their hair there (draped loosely, not like shia muslims), and it really helps and is much more practical than a hat and sun glasses. You can always remove it and wear it over your shoulder or stuff it into your bag, any time. Even the men wear scarves over their faces sometimes.

medicine for diarrhea (I used Metifex, for preventive measure, as soon as my bowels started to move more quickly, and I recovered right away every time. Ne4ver got the awful, dehydrating, weakening dysentery attacks like during my first time in India. And I ate salads and fruit salads in all the hotels and nice restaurants. During bus rides I only bought the deep fried patties stuffed with veggies or dhal, and vbottled drinks or chai, and I never bought any fruit from the street sellers, nor drank the sugar cane juice. Nor the tap water, of course. Nor bought the ice cream from the vendors at the bus stops.

medicine for colds, muscle sprains and such (like aspirin,ibuprophen and voltaren)
a spray for your throat and cough lozenges (the sand can get to you sometimes, there is often something in the air that makes me cough but I never got actually sick

antiseptic cream for any cuts or abrasions , apply
immediately

and of course, best and most helpful o all
the Lonely Planet guide to Rajasthan, Delhi and Agra
or the Lonely Planet guide to India

a pair of very comfortable walking sandals with thick rubber soles. I wore Ecco, and needed only one pair, nothing else. (flip flops may do too but they are hard on feet)

loose fitting, thin clothing of silk or cotton or viscose
and one thin jacket to put on if the evenings get cold
one pair of socks (it can get a little chilly in the desert at night)
and you can always buy more clothes in India for around 10 dollars or less a piece. Travel lightly with as few pieces of luggage as possible, you will be moving around a lot.

carry your valuables in a waist poach, do not carry your hand bag/daypack on your back in crowds

and you need a visa which can take up to ten days for processing so go early!



Fri, September 25, 2009 - 11:31 PM —

Udaipur- like Venice in Rajasthan, India

Udaipur- like Venice in Rajasthan, India

Wow, did I not post since Pushkar? I wrote a blog in Jaipur once and when I clicked submit, my booked internet time had run out, so that one disappeared.
Meanwhile I have been in Bundi, following the footsteps of Rudyard Kipling, a nicely quiet place after Pushkar, and then 2 days and three nights in Jaipur (see photo album). Oof, Jaipur- two days of sightseeing tours, and I could not take in another palace today! But Amber Fort, Gaitor and the Palace of the Winds are nice. The more my guide told me about the life of the Indian queens, the more I felt sorry for them.
Each Maharaja had either 3, 12 or even 23 wives (the 23 included concubines) and it seems, male jealousy and possessiveness knew no bounds in the old days of India. Noone was allowed to see the faces of these women, and therefore, the wives were never allowed to go outside. They had to stay inside the palaces, view the world through darkened curtains, and could not even walk freely, as they were each decked out in 13kg of clothes and another 3,5kg of jewelry and were driven around in wheelchairs inside the palace. When I asked, how they spent their days, I was told:"The Maharaja visited them in their rooms."...
This morning I took the early morning flight on Jet Airways at 7.15am and thus had a whole day to spend in Udaipur. Now I feel like, I wish I had kicked the last three cities off my itinerary and come straight here. This city is a white dream! Clean, well kept, all the houses look unbroken, all is painted in radiant white, and the best, there is a large, romantic lake with a white palace in the middle! I love it here. And it is green! Sooo green! I have not seen green like that since I came to Rajasthan. I took a boat tour on the lake and felt like I was on the Lido in Venice, Italy. And I was not the only one, the Australian couple felt like that too. And now I have finally done my shopping and am the proud owner of two Punjabi suits and three pairs of silken Aladdeen pants, the ones that look like a skirt closed at the bottom, with two elastic footholes on the corners. They looked so cute, I took all three. Also got some beautiful jewelry. And am staying in the nicest hotel ever, the staff is really sweet and help[ful, and it has a pool- Mahendra Prakash on Lake Palace Road. I feel like I shold come back in winter and spend a week just in Udaipur.
Tomorrow I am headed for Delhi and home.
Hope you enjoyed my India travel blog series.
Fri, September 25, 2009 - 9:22 AM —

Pushkar Impressions

Pushkar impressions

I have come to the conclusion that I really do not like Pushkar. It is said to be a place for pilgrims and worshippers and those Westerners who want to watch the pilgrims, but the first thing that greets you is a sign for the "Pink Floyd cafe and Hotel", all the restaurants seem to serve pasta and pizza and "Israeli salad", it is noisy, many places smell of a mix of sewers, cow shit and incense and everyone of course tries to sell you something, as usual. This morning I saw a certain Dr. Mathur, recommended by Lonely planet, who gave me a very painful reflexology treatment. He had all kinds of little tools there, made of metal, wood, wire, plastic. It may have helped but I do not really want to go through that again. On the other hand, tonight I ventured into an Indian beauty parlour for the first time in my life, feeling slightly dusty and dilapidated and in need of a make-over and some tender loving care. I asked Neelu to thread my eyebrows and henna my hair. All the other women seemed to be there with their girlfriends. One was getting her arms waxed while 3 other girls waited. But they all turned out to be her friends and left with her. When Neelu started on my eyebrows, she grabbed a roll of thread and after a very short stretch of time had managed to reshape my eyebrows into some delicate, finely chiselled arcs, and it did not hurt. After that she ran out for some henna, came back, brushed it all over my hair and told me to "sit carefully" on her waiting couch. She did not even use plastic gloves. Well, her finger tips were decorated with henna anyway. She gave me a magazine to read, so I read an article on how to cure impotence with ayurvedic remedies (onions? garlic?? who knew these were aphrodisiacs?), and another one on darga, the grave of the great Sufi saint, in Ajmer, where I went this afternoon. The interview with someone from there however, cited some rather useless pieces of advice, like "sex is not for fun but for procreation", "homosexuals do not deserve to live" and so on which does not seem to have anything to do with either Sufism nor Islam, to my knowledge. There was also something on the "water diet", the cheapest cure of all, apparently drinking 8 glasses of water can cure anything from asthma via arthritis to constipation and whatnot Interesting. Certainly worth a try, I guess. Can't hurt...
Whgen she was done with my hair, she offered me an ayurvedic masssage which was great, way better than this Dr. Mathur, and finally I had run up a huge, unregretted bill incl. a bottle of Indian hair oil she talked me into, of a whopping 1400 rupees, which is, well, 20$, the same as what my room costs for tonight...; )
More on the Sufi grave tomorrow, it is getting late. Here is the photo I took of the entrance.
Sun, September 20, 2009 - 11:01 AM

In Pushkar

I seem to be crossing Rajasthan in 5 hour bus rides. 5 hours from Jodhpur airport to Jaisalmer, 5 hours back, 5 hours from Jodhpur to Pushkar, and then it will be 5 hours to Bundi from here, and another 5 hours from Bundi to Jaipur if all goes well... Bundi is on my schedule because Lonely Planet called it "the quiet relaxing place to write that novel". I am not writing one yet, but I love the image.
So, this morning saw Mandore, the old Marwar (?) capital before Jodhpur, and then took the bus to Ajmer. Again, I was the only foreigner on the bus, and also almost the only woman, as usual. A five hour ride for 2 dollars or so. I lost my silk scarf in the rush of getting off, too bad.
From Ajmer to Pushkar I had to go on this crazy beat up old rusty bus that kept picking up more and more people until it felt like it could hardly move any longer. There was a woman standing in the leg space in front of my bench which I was sharing with two men and another man sitting on the sandsack which was crowding my feet, and people kept muttering about my suitcase taking up standing space and pointing to the roof...
Tomorrow I will have to go back on one of those buses to Ajmer to see the sufi grave. But before that I will go and see the only Brahma temple in the world, in Pushkar.
My hotel, called Inn Seventh Heaven, is a multi storeyed complicated but pretty looking structure. I am not sure how I am going to find my way back to my room, among all the stairs and bridges and hallways going up and down and over the roof...There is a list of rules at the reception, telling us that Pushkar is a holy city and therefore, no alcohol or drugs or meat are allowed here or anywhere, and we must not show cleavage, legs, shoulders...I will have to buy a new scarf, also need one for the Sufi grave. Actually I loved that scarf, such a simple way of creating a sense of safety and getting my own space. All the women wear part of their saree draped over their head, and sometimes cover their faces with it completely too, and they all look beautiful in their colourful sarees.   

Thursday, April 26, 2012

From Jaisalmer to Jodhpur

From Jaisalmer to Jodhpur

Copied from my mails sent home:
Going on a bus full of Indian men from jaisalmer to Jodhpur. Last night we hired a band of Kalbeliya gypsies to play music,sing and dance just for me in the desert.Price for the show :10Euro and Sita,the dancer,was spirited and fun too. She braided my wind blown hair for me. Today I am tired coz my mobile rang at 3 am and after that and also earlier I spent hours watching the stars in the open sky over my bed and could not sleep.So tonight i will splurge and stay at some colonial villa in Jodhpur and hope to get some rest. More maharaja palaces and a fort tomorrow. Still did not get sick from the food!
-----------------------------------------------------------
I am staying in the most delightful hotel in Jodhpur! Ratan Vilas feels like a real treat and I was ernchanted when the porter led me to my room which had a double bed, was spotless, and done in my favourite mediterranean yellow, and I had my first hot shower since arriving in India!
Breakfast was served by the gentlest, polite young Indian man in a suit and consisted of the full set of fruit, porridge, toast, eggs, yoghurt and their wonderful chai which is still the best part for me in India, always comforting, relaxing, refreshing, and always full of ginger and cardamom and other spices to reawaken your spirits after some tiring time out in the heat of the day.
Will post some pics from their home page to the album, go have a look, pls.
Today I went to the Mehrangahr Fort and Castle which blew me away with it's beauty. Wow! At last this trip feels really worth it. Halls and halls of wonders, full of glamour and richness of bygone times of Rajput rulers and heroes fighting bsattles with exquisitely made swords... I will have one hell of a photo album when I get back home and can hook up my digital camera.
For now, here is a picture of the Mandir Maharaja palace in Jaisalmer, the woman in the beautiful saree was a cleaner, I believe (I have been asked whether this is me when I emailed that pic to friends).
And now I have to run off for a dinner with folk music and dance in another hotel, so, enjoy!
Will keep blogging as I go, on a daily basis.
Fri, September 18, 2009

Sand on my skin

Sand on my skin

Yesterday I rode into the desert with a guide. The driver helped me to wrap a turban from my long scarf which also wrapped over my face, Arab style. The only way to go to protect the sun from burning my skin and the fine sand from getting everywhere. It still gets everywhere, your ears, your face, all over your body...so the scarf wrapped around your head is the perfect way to go, sunglasses etc. would not work.
My camel was cute, I loved his funny face, his little ears, his name was Lalu. On the way we passed through a kalbeliya gypsy village and the women came out and performed a song and dance for me and asked for a tip.
When we arrived at the camp they prepared some chai and lemon water and fruit and then they all looked at the sky, took out their mobile phones, kept looking at the clocks and waited until it was exactly 7pm, then said some prayers, blessed the food and then we ate together. It still is Ramadan, and many of the people in Jaisalmer are Muslims.
At night we saw some folkloric performance in the Thar resort, musicians that looked like the Maharaja band with their orange striped big turbans, and two gypsy dancers. They were not bad, but they were also not really into the dance, I could notice when they danced with me later. No comparison to Queen Harish. But anyway, I have them om film. We were served some peanut biryani, and then we drove in the jeep back to our camp, where we put two beds right out onto the dune and the guide and me slept side by side under the milky way after he served me some chilled beer and clumsily smoked a cigarette with me, like a teenager who had never smoked before....
The desert is so vast and quiet, it does something to your mind. It just expands and goes quiet. I found it very hard to take when I came back, the city seemed twice as noisy. going back again tonight.
The photo is the view from the walls of the Fort, you can see the desert behind the city.
Wed, September 16, 2009

Going to the desert today

Going to the desert today

This afternoon I will go into the desert with a guide, and after he heard that I love dancing he offered to take me to a show of the Kalbeliya dancers and musicians. So I will finally have an opportunity to see and fulfill the purpose of my coming here! He also said, the female dancer will dance with me after her performance, yay!
Just bought another pair of loose pants. I've got these very cool Turkish wrapping pants in black, with some blue sequences on them which look kind of wild and formidable but they do open when I sit or when the wind blows, so this won't work. So will have to ask the guide to teach me how to wrap a turban...
Gotta gooo....
Look at the guy on the pic, a male kalbeliya gypsy. Wish there were more men like that around, so far I have kept a careful distance from everybody, though did accept a free ride on a scooter into town to save time but held tight on the back frame rather than his waist as he had hoped for. When he said:'You are very beautiful", I replied:' You don't have a chance with me. Marry an Indian girl!', something they cannot argue with. ; )
Tue, September 15, 2009

Under the Sheltering Sky...??

Under the Sheltering Sky...??

So I am in Jaisalmer at last.
The wake up call in the Delhi hotel came half an hour late, too. Thank God I have my own alarm in my mobile.
Flew Kingfisher Air to Jodhpur and then got the bus to Jaisalmer, 5 hours through the desert. I was the only foreigner on the bus, surrounded by Rajasthani women in colourful sarees, golden nose rings and necklaces who looked almost like gypsies, their husbands, and a lot of kids, babies, and also a few bigger ones.
I looked out the open window of the bus, and realised that the only way to cope with the sun is to wrap my saree silk scarf around my hair and my face like an Arab. It works, much better than sunscreen alone.
It also makes me feel safer and keeps the men at a distance, now I walk the streets this way all the time, loose jeans, silk blouse and most of my face and hair hidden by a veil.
Unfortunately, Queen Harish had to leave to visit some sick relative just before I came, so we missed each other and I am here all alone. But we talked on the phone and maybe he will send over one of his musicians to see me.
Tomorrow they will take me into the desert and for a 7km camel ride, and to "sleep under the stars".
The interesting part is the feeling of being all alone in th middle of nowhere, (though still not sure what I am doing here) and when I feel into myself, my mind is very quiet, in sort of a suspended state, just being in the moment, and I feel no fear, just silence inside.
I have also noticed that I have become stronger and more dignified during this journey. When someone tries to tease me and put me down a little bit, I just proudly tell them off.
My new Tartar friend in Kapadokya told me, I am like an Indian woman, very strong, and he likes that.
Today, I went into the Desert Boy restaurant for lunch. When the man there started on explaining the existence of gigolos in Jaisalmer, I simply said:"You know what I do?", and I wrapped my scarf around my hair, and he changed the subject immediately. Ha! It works! So simple, actually. You just have to learn their nonverbal language.
Anyway, my hotel is gorgeous, all in sand coloured marble and located o a hill across from Sunset Point which has temple-like pavillons on it where you can sit and watch the sunset. I can lso sit on the roof and watch the Fort.
Also, inside the Fort, I followed Lonely Planet's suggestion for activities, and got an ayurvedic massage, by an Indian woman in a saree who rubbed oil all over my body and did sort of a lymph drainage thing.
Had tea and fruit at the Saffron restaurant again, and a band came and played who looked and sounded a lot like the Maharaja band from the Latcho Drom movie. The best part was the flamboyant maybe 11 year old boy who played the spoons for percussion and made very sexy expressive arm and hand movements with them. The most charming child musician he was, an all male band of boys, youngsters and men.
The photo is from a stopover of the Jodhpur-Jaisalmer bus. Note the woman in her red saree.
Mon, September 14, 2009

The mess, the chaos and the fragrance of Darjeeling

The mess, the chaos and the fragrance of Darjeeling

Arrived in Delhi now. Managed to sleep on the plane but when I arrived, the promised sign with my name and the waiting driver were nowhere to be seen. Fortunately my mobile works here too, and i had to call them, explain several times who I am and the man answered:"One ting you can dho, madam, is take a prrepaid tak-si...."
Oh great. Once I was rolling down the road in some rusty old wreck of a taxi what seemed like an unsuitably long time for one night, I started asking myself what on earth I am doing here. We were surrounded by strange looking dilapidated vehicles, huge trucks which looked like they were stapled togerther from pieces of scrap metal, there was no seat belt, and for a while I wondered whether we were even going into the center of the city and not somewhere out into the unknown countryside...
But then a sign "Karol Bagh" appeared and the driver turned off into some dirty looking part of town and started asking for Channa market.
So here I am. The driver apparently left half an hour after my arrival time for the airport, never called them, never returned so far...
They may or may not have discovered my reservation, anyway, I got my room, and they agreed to provide me with a car back to the airport at 7am for my flight to Jodhpur. Had to ask for towels several times, got some room service for an omelet and toast (food considered "safe" in India though my guts are bubbling a bit already) but the taste of the tea made up for it all. Nothing like Indian tea drunk in India.
So, I guess, I am in for another bumpy cross country ride tomorrow, once I land in Jodhpur I have to find a "private bus" to Jaisalmer.
At last Queen Harish has answered my mail and will probably see him soon in Jaisalmer, before he leaves on another tour.
Wondering whether I will be ok without malaria pills, reading all the side effects I just did not feel like spending those 250$ they wanted at the Tokyo hospital for another few weeks of medical aggravation, and did not renew that awful typhoid vaccination either. For now, I am safe from Hep A and B and diphteria and tetanus at least, I got all those shots when I was thinking of going to "Kurdistan" 2 years ago.
So, in for another adventure, I am feeling a bit like Eric Newby on one of his mad travels.
Sat, September 12, 2009 -

From İstanbul to Kapadokya

From İstanbul to Kapadokya

Yesterday İ took the cross country bus to Kapadokya. Had to be at the bus stop at 7am for an 11 hour ride. İ do thıs, rather than flying, because it gives me that feeling of really experiencing travelling.
From İstanbul til Ankara it was all gently rolling hills, covered in grass and little shrubs. Then the colour of the grass started changing slowly, from green with brown patches and then all brown, burnt by the sun and finally a lighter brown-beige and then empty patches and finally all barren brown land wıth rugged rocks here and there, the wilder landscape of Anatolia starting to appear. The girl next to me (women were not allowed to sit next to men on that bus) was wearing a headscarf and had a very quiet, pure expression on her face. She was fasting for Ramadan and did not take any of the water or tea offered on the way and dıd not eat. Finally at dusk she accepted a cup of water from the conductor, then they played the muezzeen and a spoken prayer over the radio, she prayed quietly and the finally drank some water and broke her bread. But to my surprise she shared her bread with me!

Now I am in Goereme, staying in a cave pension,an last night spent the evening at a friend's hoıuse, smoking, listening to musıc and the 3 of us dancing together.
Today İ had breakfast in a cafe, and the waiter there turned out to be the sexıest guy in town and told me that he ıs good wıth horses, and that people who are good wıth horses also are good with women. He ıs a Tartar. We talked about dance, he kept telling me all kinds of very sensuous thıngs, about touching horses, touching skin, naked souls...until İ felt İ really should leave before İ fall for another guy who will have an effect on me lıke a heavy addictive drug..., )
So, back at my frıend's house, for a quiet lazy afternoon of sufı music...
Mon, September 7, 2009

İ am in İstanbul!!!

İ am in İstanbul!!!

an old poem of mine (more on my profile ın the links)

Turkiye

Turkey, I fell into your lap
like cherries into the skirt of a girl
You closed your arms around me and
I felt your heartbeat
I danced for you and
you were enchanted
I waved my hands at you
and let my arms
move like young snakes and
you were bewitched
and when you fell in love with me
I breathed with you
like sucking in
the smoke from a waterpipe
Turkey, I roll in your lap
like ripe cherries in the skirt of
a girl.


Tonight as İ left my friend's house near İstiklal to take in the evening air, have some döner kebab and take a first evening stroll after having just arrıved again in Turkey, after 2 minutes İ ran into my favourite of all tango dancers Tunçay!! He lives down thıs street he told me.
Wed, September 2, 2009

Prague, the city of cities...

Prague, the city of cities...

I am in Prague, the incomparably beautiful city in the heart of Europe. The Czech republic, a small, green, quaint looking country that is in some ways more German than Germany itself, what with the pork roast and dumplings being offered everywhere and the beer and the grilled pig knuckles with sauerkraut? The food is so heavy I keep feeling stuffed after every meal and am always on the lookout for something slightly more Mediterranean... but on the other hand, Tschechien is simply...Tschechien. A pearl. Praha leaves you breathless, your jaw never gets a chance to close from all thoes jaw dropping sights you get to take in on a city tour, just one fantastic building after another. The municipal house, now we finally know itˇs name, is somerthing straight out of a dream. An architect´s dream. Unbelievable. Golden, cream coloured, painted, decorated, with stucco garlands and little towers and gorgeous windows and paintings on the outside walls and altogether simply unbelievably beautiful. Surrounded by gas lanterns and more glorious architecture on the "Namesti Republiky" or whatever that was called, obviously the Square of the Republic.
Now we found out that the Czechs are quite different in temper from the likes of us. Lively, warm or even hot blooded, strong willed, amd in some ways not unlike the Turks...
Tonight we rode the subway home and this band of five labourers descended on the platform, only to squat in a circle and start a game of dice on the platform. When the train rolled in, they all turned their heads and shoulders, picked up their dice, hopped on the train and immediately gathered around their game again. When we got off we could see them sitting on the floor and the benches, inside the train, still playing... I laughed so much!
Sun, August 30, 2009