Under the Sheltering Sky...??

Under the Sheltering Sky...??

So I am in Jaisalmer at last.
The wake up call in the Delhi hotel came half an hour late, too. Thank God I have my own alarm in my mobile.
Flew Kingfisher Air to Jodhpur and then got the bus to Jaisalmer, 5 hours through the desert. I was the only foreigner on the bus, surrounded by Rajasthani women in colourful sarees, golden nose rings and necklaces who looked almost like gypsies, their husbands, and a lot of kids, babies, and also a few bigger ones.
I looked out the open window of the bus, and realised that the only way to cope with the sun is to wrap my saree silk scarf around my hair and my face like an Arab. It works, much better than sunscreen alone.
It also makes me feel safer and keeps the men at a distance, now I walk the streets this way all the time, loose jeans, silk blouse and most of my face and hair hidden by a veil.
Unfortunately, Queen Harish had to leave to visit some sick relative just before I came, so we missed each other and I am here all alone. But we talked on the phone and maybe he will send over one of his musicians to see me.
Tomorrow they will take me into the desert and for a 7km camel ride, and to "sleep under the stars".
The interesting part is the feeling of being all alone in th middle of nowhere, (though still not sure what I am doing here) and when I feel into myself, my mind is very quiet, in sort of a suspended state, just being in the moment, and I feel no fear, just silence inside.
I have also noticed that I have become stronger and more dignified during this journey. When someone tries to tease me and put me down a little bit, I just proudly tell them off.
My new Tartar friend in Kapadokya told me, I am like an Indian woman, very strong, and he likes that.
Today, I went into the Desert Boy restaurant for lunch. When the man there started on explaining the existence of gigolos in Jaisalmer, I simply said:"You know what I do?", and I wrapped my scarf around my hair, and he changed the subject immediately. Ha! It works! So simple, actually. You just have to learn their nonverbal language.
Anyway, my hotel is gorgeous, all in sand coloured marble and located o a hill across from Sunset Point which has temple-like pavillons on it where you can sit and watch the sunset. I can lso sit on the roof and watch the Fort.
Also, inside the Fort, I followed Lonely Planet's suggestion for activities, and got an ayurvedic massage, by an Indian woman in a saree who rubbed oil all over my body and did sort of a lymph drainage thing.
Had tea and fruit at the Saffron restaurant again, and a band came and played who looked and sounded a lot like the Maharaja band from the Latcho Drom movie. The best part was the flamboyant maybe 11 year old boy who played the spoons for percussion and made very sexy expressive arm and hand movements with them. The most charming child musician he was, an all male band of boys, youngsters and men.
The photo is from a stopover of the Jodhpur-Jaisalmer bus. Note the woman in her red saree.

Mon, September 14, 2009